Provenance: Dolores del Rio
Illustrated: “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker(Assouline, 2015)
Hunt and Roskell in alliance with J. W. Benson 18k gold pomander / vinaigrette in the form of an apple, Marked: 307049 (British Registration mark), J.W.B. makers mark and British gold hallmarks original red leather box, c. 1897
The Tale of the Golden Apple
It was the wedding of Peleus and Thetis (the parents of Achilles) that the Goddess Elis threw a golden apple into the assembled crowd. Upon the surface of the fruit was etched “To The Faires”. Three goddesses laid claim upon the apple; Aphrodite, Hera and Athena. It was decided by Zeus, king of the Gods, that Paris of Troy should mediate the dispute. After bathing in the spring of Mount Ida, the three presented themselves to Paris. It was decided that Aphrodite, the Goddess of love and beauty, had the superior claim and that the golden apple belonged to her.
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. “Berry brooch” 18K yellow gold set with 40 oval cut demantoid garnets (approx. 9 carats TW /G.I.A. certificate) and 7 small oval cabochon Persian turquoise stones, Signed: Tiffany, Schlumberger, 18K, c. 1968
Illustrated: (“Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837-1987”, Clare Phillips, page 279 (Vintage Tiffany Blue Book 1968-1969, ruby version of this brooch priced at $1,475)
French Art Deco “Heptagon” clip / brooch set with a large fancy cut madeira citrine and 8 baguette madeira citrines all set in 18K gold, signed GA in a diamond French touch mark, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1935
MAISON OSTERTAG (Place Vendome, Paris) 1920’s and 30’s
ARNOLD OSTERTAG (Jeweler / Designer)
VERGER FRERES (maker)
Art Deco jewel mounted mechanical covered box c. 1925
Of rectangular stepped form, the black enamel box hinged and accented at the top with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral; spring loaded to pull down and reveal a cinnabar red enamel interior, the exterior with gold champlevé set highly stylized geometric initials and further ornamented with geometric square cut out gold applied handles embellished with salmon coral beads and red enamel bands, all resting on a recessed agate base and conforming black onyx base punctuated with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral on each corner.
Marks: Ostertag (on a gold plaque inset into the underside of the onyx base)
H: 4″ x W: 3 1/2″ x D: 3 1/2″
Arnold Ostertag was a Swiss-born jeweler who became a dominant force in the creation of fine jewels and objects in Paris during the 1920s and 30s. After studying dentistry in Chicago, Ostertag embarked on a world tour and, while traveling through India, became fascinated by jewels. He later settled in Paris and opened a very successful salon on the Place Vendome. In design and quality, Ostertag’s jewels, which frequently featured Indian themes, rivaled the production of many of the most famous Parisian jewelry houses. In fact, the renowned clockmaker George Verger/Verger Freres, produced wonderful clocks and mechanical objects for Ostertag, as well as for many other world renowned jewelers and likely masterminded the mechanism of the Art Deco box above. In addition to making pieces for Ostertag, Maison Verger made pieces for Cartier, LaCloche, Marzo, Boucheron, Hermes, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Mauboussin, etc. Arnold Ostertag was popular on the international front and made many trips to America spending time in both New York, as well as Los Angeles where he befriended many Hollywood stars. He also received commissions during his trips to make exquisite custom jewelry and precious jeweled objects such as this fine Art Deco box.
Length: 50 inches Width of the turquoise beads: 3/8 of an inch
Weight: 2.01 Troy ounces TW / 62.6 grams / 40.3 pennyweights
John W. Charlton opened his business in New York under the name of J.W.Charlton in 1909, later changing to Charlton & Co when Robert S. Chapin became his partner. In the 1920s, branches were open in Palm Beach and in Paris. In 1934, another partner Grant A. Peacock acquired ownership of the company, changing the name to his own. Charlton was known for creating some of the most important jewels of the Art Deco period, with an impressive client list equalling those of the biggest jewellery firms.
ASPREY & CO. LTD. (founded 1781) London, UK
Important Natural Ruby Gem Set 18K Gold Cardinal Bird Sculpture 1980
Finely chased and chiseled 18K yellow and white gold realistically rendered sculpture of a Cardinal bird set with
85+ carats (approx.) of natural gem quality oval and round cut Burmese rubies (GIA certificate) further heightened with enamel eyes and blackened gold face plumage details, the 18K gold and natural ruby cardinal sets atop a natural Amethyst crystal “mountain rock” with a tooled and gilt (script mark) on the leather under-pad.
Marks: A & Co. (in a quatrefoil), Crown mark, 750 (gold standard mark) Lion’s head (London assay mark) “F” date mark for 1980, tooled and gilt Asprey (script mark) on the leather under-pad
Provenance: Privately commissioned by the Sultan of Brunei’s younger brother, Prince Jefri Bolkiah who also later became the owner of Asprey & Co in the 1995. This rare sculptural 18K gold and natural ruby Cardinal was handmade by the finest jewelers and work masters in the workshop of the London Asprey & Co. located above the flagship store at 167 New Bond Street.
H: 3 ¾” x L: 5 3/4” x W: 1 ½”(Cardinal only)
H: 6” x W: 6 ¾” x D: 5 ¾” (with Cardinal atop natural Amethyst crystal rock)
As one might guess, a large part of the animal symbolism of the cardinal comes from the brilliant red color of the males. In fact, its name is derived from the royal red vestments worn by Catholic cardinals. This shock of red, especially against the stark backdrop of winter snow, is a magnificent sight. The male cardinal reminds us passion, warmth and vibrancy is available to us – even under the cloak of Winter’s grey clouds. Interestingly, the more bold and bright his color is, the more successful the cardinal will be at prolonging his lineage. Dull colored male cardinals are less likely to mate successfully than bright colored ones. True to the fire of his color, the crimson cardinal has got some major spunk. He will aggressively defend his territory, and fight attackers with ferocity. Indeed, they have been known to fight ghost males (their reflections) in mirrors for hours on end. Both male and female give us glorious songs. Along with peeps and pips and warbles, the tuned ear can also hear “cheer, cheer, cheer!” Very appropriate to the animal symbolism of cardinals, because they are a delight to both eyes and ears. The cardinal makes a fantastic animal totem. It reminds us to hold ourselves with pride, not ego pride but rather the cardinal asks us to stand a little taller, be a bit more regal and step into our natural confidence as if we were born to lead with grace and nobility. Those who attract the cardinal as their totem are naturally energetic, love life, and happily help others where and when they can!
Marcus & Co Art Nouveau pendant necklace, Handwrought 18 K yellow gold set with a large cabochon natural emerald center stone (approx. 30+ carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, moderate clarity enhancement, 18.30 x 18.20 x 12.20mm) surrounded by green enamel details with gold looping bezel mounts and platinum topped diamond side details set with 43 diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW), cabochon emerald pendant drop (approx. 15 carats TW) with a green enamel and gold capped top, elaborate looping 18K yellow gold chain, signed, c. 1900