Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) “Camellia” brooch, black and coral enameled 18k gold further set with diamond pave furled leaf edges set in platinum with a large red coral central cabochon, signed, c.1920’s
Asian Art Nouveau inspired “Frog on a Lily Pad” ring, 18K white gold with a gunmetal surface, cabochon amethyst petals, a three dimensional frogs pave set with tsavorites and sapphire eyes, diamond details, marked, c. 2005
Joseph Kutchinsky, London (1914-2000) “Wrapped Cloth” ring in 18K yellow gold with a platinum tapered rectangular form pave set with 37 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) , signed, 1973 (London gold mark small “s” for 1973) (illustrated: Christie’s Twentieth-Century Jewelry, Sally Everitt and David Lancaster (New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 2002) p.113.
Paul Flato (attr.) “Dolores del Rio” cuff bracelet, 3 large rectangular citrines (approx. 200+ carats) and pave diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) set in 18K yellow gold and platinum,(G.I.A. certificate) c. 1940
Provenance: Dolores del Rio
Illustrated: “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker(Assouline, 2015)
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
Walter P. McTeigue Penguin brooch, platinum set with pave diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW), 18k gold body further set with two cabochon emerald eyes, signed, c.1940’s
Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau brooch, “Tibula” shaped 18k yellow gold brooch set with three natural pearls, the natural center button pearl approx. 10 mm in diameter (G.I.A. certificate, 3 natural freshwater pearls, weight 24.90 grams, measurement range from 5.46 to 12.26mm), 16 sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the two large and high dome middle sapphires with a purple hue, 20 pave set round diamonds all surrounded with clear plique-a-jour further trapped with platinum flakes, signed c. 1897
French Art Deco Interlocking ring, Invisibly set rectangular sapphires (10 count, approx. 2.50 carats TW), pave diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) all set in a platinum mount, c. 1935
Neil Lane solitaire “Cognac” orange/brown diamond ring (1.87 carats natural color, GIA certificate) set in a double loop through design all in 18k gold with micro pave work throughout, signed, c.2006
Neil Lane heart shaped natural sapphire solitaire ring, 3.12 carats (GIA certificate, 8.56 x 9.62 x 5.13mm, no heat) with a diamond pave set platinum mounting, signed, c. 2005
Tiffany & Co. “Prince of Wales’ Feathers” made during the reign of Edward VII (he held his title of the Prince of Wales longer than anyone before him and was King of England from 1901 to 1910) brooch pave set with 123 round-cut diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) and all set in a three dimensional brooch of platinum topped gold, signed: Tiffany & Co., c.1900
Enrico Serafini “Pineapple” brooch, 18K yellow and white gold channel set with the pineapple body with citrines with emeralds pave set in the white gold leaves, Marked: 750, Italy, FI, c. 1950’s
Enrico Serafini (1913-1968) was born in Florence, had a workshop in Piazza Santa Felicità in that city in 1947, and quickly established a successful business creating jewelry for many celebrities of that time, including John Steinbeck and Adlai Stevenson.
@hd_jewels