Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) “Camellia” brooch, black and coral enameled 18k gold further set with diamond pave furled leaf edges set in platinum with a large red coral central cabochon, signed, c.1920’s
Suzanne Belperron / Groene et Darde Paris, Pair of multi stone rings, five oval cut citrines and five oval cut amethysts all set in 18K gold further set with platinum mounted diamonds, signed, c. 1940’s / early 1950’s
“Cat’s Eyes” bombe clip earrings, 72 fine and rare color cabochon chrysoberyl “Cat’s Eyes” and 12 interspersed diamonds, all set in 18k gold, marked, c. 1950’s
American 1960’s classic “Door Knocker / Hoop” earrings, carved, contoured and polished onyx with 18k gold side plate details and clip backs, Marked: 18k (2x), c. 1960’s
Mauboussin, Paris extremely flexible bracelet set with demantoid garnets (285 count, approximately 20 carats total weight) and diamonds (114 count approximately 8 carats total weight) all set in 18K gold hexagon shaped individual bezels and clasp, signed: Mauboussin maker’s mark (2x), 750 (18K gold mark), French Eagle’s head mark for 18K gold, c. 1950
Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) Art Deco “Pennanular” brooch, onyx and black and enameled 18k gold further set with 53 diamonds in arcing details set in platinum with three ovoid Persian turquoise cabochons, signed, c.1920’s
Theodore B. Starr (attr.) American Art Nouveau brooch, High style openwork graphic design in 18k gold and set with two large oval cabochon emeralds and one tear drop emerald (20 carats TW) with 144 old European round cut diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) and six small cabochon emeralds as accents, c. 1900
Boucheron (attr.) large and impressive “Peacock Feather” cuff/bracelet in 18k gold and set with numerous heart shaped cabochon opals as the eyes of the peacock feathers, marked, c.1895
Lacloche Freres, Fancy 18K gold card case inset with 54 triangle cut Rubies (approx. 10 carats TW), an oval cabochon ruby for the closure button and champleve arching white enamel scallop details on the front and back, 18K gold, signed, c. 1930
Cartier, Paris “Elephant” Maillon Panthere bracelet in 18k gold and set with 200 round cut diamonds (approx. 10 carats TW) and three round cut emeralds for the eyes, signed: Cartier (script signature), no. 641403, 750, French Eagle’s head assay mark for 18k gold (3x), maker’s mark in a diamond cartouche, c.1980’s
Boucheron Paris, Moderne ring set with a step cut square citrine (approx. 8 carats TW) and contoured bone details on either side all set in a solid 18K gold mount, signed, c. 1970’s
Bulgari, Rome, Revivalist “Lion Recumbent” wide bracelet, 18k gold with an elaborate woven edge detail and further decorated with 22 full figure resting lions, signed: BVLGARI, Made in Italy, 18k, original brown leather envelope, c.1940’s
*** The lion motif is modeled after the famous recumbent lions by Antonio Canova (Italy, 1757-1822), made for the monumental tomb of Clement XIII at St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome
Tiffany & Co., New York Neo-Gothic “Vesta” case with 18k gold mountings and polychrome champleve enamel details on a “bone” covered case with hand carved foliate details on an 18k gold French “Belle Epoque” long chain, Tiffany & Co. Vesta signed: Tiffany & Co. (2x), LS in a diamond cartouche, mark for Georges Le Sache, 346 rue St.-Honore, 75001, Paris, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold (2x), French “Belle Epoque” long chain signed: Diamond shaped makers cartouche (2x), French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold (3x), French Rhinoceros and Weevil 18k gold assay marks for small pieces, c. 1880
Vesta dimensions: H: 2 inches x W: 1 and ¾ inches x Depth: 5/8 inches
Tapio Wirkkala / Nils Westerback, Pendant Necklace, Lap-gold (18K gold or higher) pendant head with a rigid necklace, marked, 1970
TAPIO WIRKKALA (1915-1985) Finland
NILS WESTERBACK Finland
Pendant Necklace 1970
Lap-gold (18K gold or higher) pendant head with a rigid necklace
Makers: Tapio Wirkkala and Nils Westerback
Marks: 750, three crowns symbols
Model illustrated in: The Art of Jewelry, Graham Hughes (New York: The Viking Press, Inc., 1972), p. 135; Scandinavian Design, Charlotte and Peter Fiell (Köln: TASCHEN, 2002) p. 675; Marianne Aav, Rosa Barovier Mentasti and Gordon Bowyer, et al., Tapio Wirkkala – eye, hand and thought, exh. cat., Museum of Art and Design, Helsinki, 2000, p. 194, fig. 342 and p. 370
Ettore Sottsass / Walter de Mario, 18K gold architectural ring, signed, 1964
ETTORE SOTTSASS Italy
WALTER DE MARIO (maker) Italy
Architecural ring 1964
18K gold
Signed: ES1, 750, Walter de Mario touch mark
Illustrated: Ettore Sottsass, Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, 1994, p. 65
Exhibited: Ettore Sottsass, Centre Pompidou, Paris, April 27-September 5, 1994; Barbara Radice, Ettore Sottsass: A Critical Biography, New York, 1993 p. 144-145 (for related drawings)
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
Giacinto Melillo (1846-1915) Naples “Etruscan / Archaeological Revival” Campana bracelet in 18k gold with extremely delicate and elaborate granulation gold work, delicate applied gold wire-work and gold beading further accented with polychrome enamel details, two cabochon bead emeralds and a pearl on 7 hinged square panels and two semi-circular panels, signed: G. Melillo touch mark on top of the end screw clasp and Triunfo (triumph) in a cartouche on the back of one of the arcing panels, c.1870
Dimensions: Length: 7 and 5/8 inches x Width: 1 inch
Barrey, Paris, Art Deco “Wheat” clip brooch in 18k gold with fine details of a sheath of wheat, marked: JJB in a diamond poincon (maker’s mark of barrey, 18 rue du mail 75002, Paris), French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold (2x), c. 1938
Marchak Paris, “Gold Ball” earrings, 9 fluted gold balls with woven rope designed chains in 18K gold, Signed and marked: Marchak, Made in Paris, no. 230494, c. 1935
Hermes / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link necklace/ bracelet, 18K gold, signed, c. 1970’s
Hermes, Paris / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link bracelet, 18K gold, signed: Hermes (block engraved signature), no. 66897, GL in a diamond mark for Georges Lenfant, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1950’s
Weight of one bracelet: 2.97 Troy ounces / 92.5 grams / 59.4 pennyweights
Hermes, Paris / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link bracelet, 18K gold, signed: Hermes (block engraved signature), no. 68083, GL in a diamond mark for Georges Lenfant, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1950’s
Weight of the second bracelet: 2.90 Troy ounces / 90.1 grams / 58 pennyweights
Gaucherand, Paris “Fringe Turban” shaped brooch set with a large emerald cut Siberian amethyst (approx. 70 carats), 6 round cut diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW) and 19 cabochon turquoise all set in 18k gold, signed, c.1950
Egyptian Revival “Double Ibis” highly detailed 18k gold brooch in the form of two Ibis with hanging fringe feathers set with a round cabochon emerald (approx. 5 carats) and a round cabochon ruby (approx. 6 carats), c. 1920
H. Stern, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil highly textured and sculptural tapered bracelet in 18K gold set with 7 oval gem quality amethysts (approx. 14 carats TW) Marked: 750 mark, S (H. Stern mark) in a diamond, c. 1960’s
Cartier, Paris “Snake” necklace in finely detailed 18k gold and with a slightly expandable link feature, signed: Cartier Paris (script signature), no. 02694, French Eagle’s head touchmark for 18K gold (2x), Cartier touchmark in a diamond, original Cartier red leather, velvet and silk presentation box, c.1940
Giacinto Melillo (attr.) Italian Ancient Revival Medallion 18K gold pendant earrings with white and black enamel and central face motifs, hanging floral details, retailed in Paris, marked, c. 1880
Cartier Paris 18K gold “Knot” bangle bracelet, signed: Cartier (script signature) Cartier touch mark, French Eagle’s head touch mark for 18K gold (2x), c. 1960’s
@hd_jewels