European gem set butterfly brooch with rubies, emeralds (3.5 carats TW), diamonds, opals, a sapphire (4 carats TW) and a garnet (5 carats TW) in 18K gold, c. 1880’s
French Retro “Bird” brooch set with a large oval gem quality “Rubellite”/ Tourmaline (approx. 9 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 15.20 x 11.55x 7.90mm, no heat), sapphires, diamonds and an emerald eye all set in 18K yellow gold, marked, c. 1940’s
American Art Deco ring set with a large gem quality emerald step-cut aquamarine (approx. 15 carats by calculation with the dimensions of 17mm x 13mm x 10mm depth) and 10 round cut diamonds (approx. half of a carat TW) all set in a platinum “Bow tie” design mount, signed: FFF framed with a triangle facing in on either side (maker’s mark), Plat (platinum mark), c.1935
H. Stern, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil highly textured and sculptural tapered bracelet in 18K gold set with 7 oval gem quality amethysts (approx. 14 carats TW) Marked: 750 mark, S (H. Stern mark) in a diamond, c. 1960’s
Italian long chain with 18k gold hammered links and set with 9 count gem quality naturally tumbled turquoise beads, marked: 20 (maker’s assigned number, VR for Verona, 750 for 18k gold, c. 1970’s
Length: 50 inches Width of the turquoise beads: 3/8 of an inch
Asprey & Co., Important Cardinal Sculpture gem set with natural rubies, 18K gold and amethyst quartz, signed,1980
ASPREY & CO. LTD. (founded 1781) London, UK
Important Natural Ruby Gem Set 18K Gold Cardinal Bird Sculpture 1980
Finely chased and chiseled 18K yellow and white gold realistically rendered sculpture of a Cardinal bird set with
85+ carats (approx.) of natural gem quality oval and round cut Burmese rubies (GIA certificate) further heightened with enamel eyes and blackened gold face plumage details, the 18K gold and natural ruby cardinal sets atop a natural Amethyst crystal “mountain rock” with a tooled and gilt (script mark) on the leather under-pad.
Marks: A & Co. (in a quatrefoil), Crown mark, 750 (gold standard mark) Lion’s head (London assay mark) “F” date mark for 1980, tooled and gilt Asprey (script mark) on the leather under-pad
Provenance: Privately commissioned by the Sultan of Brunei’s younger brother, Prince Jefri Bolkiah who also later became the owner of Asprey & Co in the 1995. This rare sculptural 18K gold and natural ruby Cardinal was handmade by the finest jewelers and work masters in the workshop of the London Asprey & Co. located above the flagship store at 167 New Bond Street.
H: 3 ¾” x L: 5 3/4” x W: 1 ½”(Cardinal only)
H: 6” x W: 6 ¾” x D: 5 ¾” (with Cardinal atop natural Amethyst crystal rock)
As one might guess, a large part of the animal symbolism of the cardinal comes from the brilliant red color of the males. In fact, its name is derived from the royal red vestments worn by Catholic cardinals. This shock of red, especially against the stark backdrop of winter snow, is a magnificent sight. The male cardinal reminds us passion, warmth and vibrancy is available to us – even under the cloak of Winter’s grey clouds. Interestingly, the more bold and bright his color is, the more successful the cardinal will be at prolonging his lineage. Dull colored male cardinals are less likely to mate successfully than bright colored ones. True to the fire of his color, the crimson cardinal has got some major spunk. He will aggressively defend his territory, and fight attackers with ferocity. Indeed, they have been known to fight ghost males (their reflections) in mirrors for hours on end. Both male and female give us glorious songs. Along with peeps and pips and warbles, the tuned ear can also hear “cheer, cheer, cheer!” Very appropriate to the animal symbolism of cardinals, because they are a delight to both eyes and ears. The cardinal makes a fantastic animal totem. It reminds us to hold ourselves with pride, not ego pride but rather the cardinal asks us to stand a little taller, be a bit more regal and step into our natural confidence as if we were born to lead with grace and nobility. Those who attract the cardinal as their totem are naturally energetic, love life, and happily help others where and when they can!
Jules & Louis Wiese Etruscan Revival brooch set with a gem quality cabochon ruby (approx. 4.32 carats by calculation) and two natural pearls (7mm each) all in an elaborate 18k gold mount with intricate twisted scrolls and a gold wire wrapped border signed: Wiese (in Gothic-style signature mark), French diamond maker’s poincon, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, original burgundy leather presentation box with fancy embossed gilt initials on the cover and a vanilla silk velvet and satin interior, c.1875
Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co. “Oval Moon” brooch set with a large gem quality moonstone (approx. 43 carats) set with 23 Montana sapphires (approx. 8 carats TW), marked: 10% Irid. Plat, c. 1920
Van Cleef & Arpels, New York gem set floral perfume bottle in 14k rose gold set with 5 round cut natural rubies (approx. 1 carat TW) and one round cut diamond, signed: Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, 2669, 14k, c.1938 (left) &Cartier Art Deco “Candle or Flame” portable perfume bottle in 14k gold, signed: Cartier (script signature), 14k, c.1930’s (right)
Edwardian Era elaborate pendant necklace with a large fancy round-cut natural gem Madeira citrine (approx. 30 carats TW dimensions 20mm x 20mm x 16mm, GIA certificate) in a fine milligrain platinum mount with stylized leaves and flower blossoms and a bow all set with 83 old European round-cut diamonds (approx. 4.65 carats TW) suspended from the matching and period platinum chain, c.1900
Jaipur Enameled and Gem Set Rare Solid Gold Cup and Saucer c. mid-19th Century
JAIPUR, MUGHAL INDIA
Enameled and gem set gold Cup and Saucer c. mid-19th Century
High carat yellow gold (22-24 carat) cup and saucer set with a fine emerald, ruby and diamonds, the cup with a high foot with rounded sides and handle formed of two snakes intersecting at three points and biting the rim. The exterior is decorated with red, green, blue and white enamels with roundels containing combatant animals on a ground of floral sprays, the saucer with gently rounded sides decorated with lobed cartouches containing warriors combating tigers and birds, the underside with a series of oval panels containing peacocks and hummingbirds.
Provenance: a gift from a European diplomat in the 1930’s-40’s, and thence by descent.
Saucer: Dia: 5 1/4;
Cup: H: 2 3/4″ (with handle) x Dia: 2 5/8″
Similar animal decoration can be found in an epaulette attributed to Rajesthan, probably Jaipur, in the Khalili Collection (Pedro Moura Carvalho, Gems and Jewels of Mughal India, London, 2010, p. 225, no. 120. A related cup and saucer with similar animal depictions was sold at Christie’s (Islamic Art, Indian Miniatures, Rugs and Carpets, London, 21st October 1993, lot 350.
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