Seaman Schepps, (1881-1972) Founded 1904, New York “Flower” matched pair of brooch/pendants, each brooch set with a half round of a large pink tourmaline Mughal bead (approx. 122 carats each for a total of 244 carats), each set with seventeen natural baroque pearls (34 count total) encircling each pink tourmaline cabochon and all set in a yellow gold mounting with both a double pin back and a pendant bale on each, marked: 14k, c. 1940
Seaman Schepps “Grape” cluster clip/brooch set with 9 large cabochon sapphires (approx. 85+ carats TW), 5 large cabochon emeralds (approx. 35+ carats TW) and 13 round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) set in a 14K yellow mounting with leaves and vines, signed Seaman Schepps and 14k, Dimensions: 2 3/4 inches long x 2 1/4 inches wide, c. 1940
***This is a closely related “Grape” cluster clip/brooch model that Seaman Schepps made on commission for the eminent socialite Doris Duke (Collection Seaman Schepps, but there is a predominance of dark blue and purple cabochon sapphires in the DD brooch as opposed to the predominance of larger and more translucent cabochon sapphires as well as cabochon emeralds in this example
Seaman Schepps, New York “Maltese Cross” brooch, one large round cut central citrine (approx. 45 carats) set with 4 large square step-cut citrines (approx. 108 carats TW) and further set with four extra long baguette citrines (approx. 13 carats TW) in a radiating pattern set in 14k yellow gold (total citrine carat weight of 166 carats), signed: Seaman Schepps, 14k, c. 1940’s
An immigrant’s son, who grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side, Seaman Schepps rose to prominence in the 1930s with jewelry designs that challenged the status quo and defined a new style for the American woman. With his chunky brooches, “barbaric” bracelets and “bubble” earrings, Schepps pioneered a unique style of jewelry whose sense of splendor offered a new perspective to the world of fine jewelry.
Witty, over-the-top and flattering, Schepps’ jewelry embodied style and originality and was featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Look and other magazines. It appealed to a myriad of clients from Katherine Hepburn to Andy Warhol to the Duchess of Windsor and greatly influenced his contemporaries. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewelers.
Through the 1930s, and into the 40s and 50s, new clients flocked to him at his store on Madison Avenue. Often clients wanted a one-of-a-kind bauble and commissioned Schepps to incorporate their old jewelry into a fresh new design. Frequently this led to landmark decisions that helped distinguish Schepps as an extraordinary talent. His client list included Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. By serving these most powerful and influential individuals, Schepps became known as “America’s Court Jeweler”.
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