Franz Delavilla / Oskar Dietrich brooch, Handwrought gold with heart-shaped leaves, moonstones, marked: OD makers touchmark, Austrian horse mark (585 / 14k gold standard), c.1911 (matching earrings)
Jules & Louis Wiese Etruscan Revival brooch set with a gem quality cabochon ruby (approx. 4.32 carats by calculation) and two natural pearls (7mm each) all in an elaborate 18k gold mount with intricate twisted scrolls and a gold wire wrapped border signed: Wiese (in Gothic-style signature mark), French diamond maker’s poincon, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, original burgundy leather presentation box with fancy embossed gilt initials on the cover and a vanilla silk velvet and satin interior, c.1875
Tiffany & Co. “Prince of Wales’ Feathers” made during the reign of Edward VII (he held his title of the Prince of Wales longer than anyone before him and was King of England from 1901 to 1910) brooch pave set with 123 round-cut diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) and all set in a three dimensional brooch of platinum topped gold, signed: Tiffany & Co., c.1900
Cartier, London “Star of David with Lion Rampant Brochant/Lord Nathan” lapel brooch set with calibre-cut sapphires in platinum in the shape of The Star of David with an 18k gold yellow gold crowned and finely detailed sculptural Lion Rampant Brochant overlaid on the Star of David, commissioned by Lord Nathan from Cartier London in 1946, signed: Cartier, London (script signature), original signed Cartier leather presentation box
Lord Nathan (1889-1963), Harry Louis Nathan, 1stBaron Nathan, was born in London in 1889 and was the son of Michael Henry Nathan, a fine art publisher and J.P. (Justice of Peace) He was educated at St. Paul’s School and became honorary secretary of the Brady Working Lads’ Club, the oldest and largest of the London Jewish Lads’ Clubs (J.L.G.B). Nathan served in World War I, leaving with the rank of Major. He was first elected in 1929 as M.P. (Member of Parliament) for Bethnal Green North East and was re-elected in 1931. Along with many other Anglo-Jewish communal leaders, Nathan was a founding member of the Central British Fund for German Jewry (now World Jewish Relief Fund). He was created a hereditary peer as Baron Nathan of Churt in the County of Surrey on June 28th, 1940. He continued in active politics from the House of Lords, serving as Under-Secretary of State for War (1945-1946) and Minister for Civil Aviation (October 4, 1946-May 31st, 1948). He was made a Privy Counsellor in 1946. This lapel brooch was commissioned by Lord Nathan from Cartier London in 1945/46 and descended in his family.
Seaman Schepps, New York “Maltese Cross” brooch, one large round cut central citrine (approx. 45 carats) set with 4 large square step-cut citrines (approx. 108 carats TW) and further set with four extra long baguette citrines (approx. 13 carats TW) in a radiating pattern set in 14k yellow gold (total citrine carat weight of 166 carats), signed: Seaman Schepps, 14k, c. 1940’s
An immigrant’s son, who grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side, Seaman Schepps rose to prominence in the 1930s with jewelry designs that challenged the status quo and defined a new style for the American woman. With his chunky brooches, “barbaric” bracelets and “bubble” earrings, Schepps pioneered a unique style of jewelry whose sense of splendor offered a new perspective to the world of fine jewelry.
Witty, over-the-top and flattering, Schepps’ jewelry embodied style and originality and was featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Look and other magazines. It appealed to a myriad of clients from Katherine Hepburn to Andy Warhol to the Duchess of Windsor and greatly influenced his contemporaries. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewelers.
Through the 1930s, and into the 40s and 50s, new clients flocked to him at his store on Madison Avenue. Often clients wanted a one-of-a-kind bauble and commissioned Schepps to incorporate their old jewelry into a fresh new design. Frequently this led to landmark decisions that helped distinguish Schepps as an extraordinary talent. His client list included Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. By serving these most powerful and influential individuals, Schepps became known as “America’s Court Jeweler”.
Mahrokh Beck, Munich, Stylized flower brooch with a large square cut citrine, a smaller square cut citrine, yellow and orange oval citrines, sapphires and cognac diamonds all set in 18K yellow gold, c. 2005
MAHROKH BECK Munich, Germany
Stylized flower brooch c. 2005
Set in 18 K yellow gold with a large square cut citrine (approx. 40 carats TW) and a smaller square cut citrine (approx. 4 carats TW), 2 oval orange citrines, 2 oval yellow citrines, 2 oval sapphires and cognac diamonds
Uno A Erre, Arezzo, Italy, basket weave textured 18k gold in the form of a pill box, marked: 1AR (in a hexagon), Uno A.R. (in an oval), 750 (in a hexagon), c. 1970’s
Jaipur Enameled and Gem Set Rare Solid Gold Cup and Saucer c. mid-19th Century
JAIPUR, MUGHAL INDIA
Enameled and gem set gold Cup and Saucer c. mid-19th Century
High carat yellow gold (22-24 carat) cup and saucer set with a fine emerald, ruby and diamonds, the cup with a high foot with rounded sides and handle formed of two snakes intersecting at three points and biting the rim. The exterior is decorated with red, green, blue and white enamels with roundels containing combatant animals on a ground of floral sprays, the saucer with gently rounded sides decorated with lobed cartouches containing warriors combating tigers and birds, the underside with a series of oval panels containing peacocks and hummingbirds.
Provenance: a gift from a European diplomat in the 1930’s-40’s, and thence by descent.
Saucer: Dia: 5 1/4;
Cup: H: 2 3/4″ (with handle) x Dia: 2 5/8″
Similar animal decoration can be found in an epaulette attributed to Rajesthan, probably Jaipur, in the Khalili Collection (Pedro Moura Carvalho, Gems and Jewels of Mughal India, London, 2010, p. 225, no. 120. A related cup and saucer with similar animal depictions was sold at Christie’s (Islamic Art, Indian Miniatures, Rugs and Carpets, London, 21st October 1993, lot 350.
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