Andrew Grima “Comet” ring, Asymmetric cut citrine mounted in 18K textured yellow gold, five diamonds, signed: GRIMA, 0.750 (in a rectangle cartouche, AG Limited (in a rectangular cartouche), Crown, 18, Lion’s Head (for London), q (date mark for 1971), 1971
French 1950’s “Turban Style” ring, large pearl (G.I.A. certificate, Weight of the pearl: 16 grams, bead cultured pearl, saltwater, drop shape, white color, “Orient” overtone) and fancy diamond ring set with two triangle diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and 48 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) all set in platinum, signed
Chanel, Paris “Camellia” 18k yellow gold articulated blossom ring set with 75 round full-cut white diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW) and 101 round full-cut yellow diamonds (approx. 1.00 carat TW) and 94 round full-cut demantoid garnets (approx. 1.00 carat TW) all in 24 heart shaped hinged and moveable flower petals with a central cluster of 7 round full-cut diamonds, signed: Chanel in a rectangle, 750 in a cartouche, size: 7 1/4, c. 1980’s
French Art Deco Diamond and sapphire ring, Round rose cut diamond (approx. 3 carats) set with sapphires (approx. 1.5 carats TW) in a platinum mount, signed, c. 1930
French Art Deco ring set with a fine jadeite oval cabochon, faceted and caliber cut onyx, and further set with 18 round diamonds and six square French-cut diamonds all set in a millegrain platinum mount, c. 1920’s
American Art Nouveau “Green Heart” ring set with a heart shaped peridot (approx.15 carats) surrounded with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3 ½ carats TW) all set in an 18K gold mounting, c.1900
American “Retro Ruby” ring set with three square cut natural pink toned rubies (approx. 2 carats TW) in a 14K mounting, marked: RKV maker’s mark, 14K, inscribed with the initials H.R.P.to S.M.P., c.1940
Guebelin Switzerland “Half moon” ring in 18K white brushed gold set with a large cabochon oval moonstone, two crescent moon shaped inset lapis lazuli stones and further set with two tapered baguette diamonds on either side, signed with the Guebelin cipher, 750 and Swiss, c. 1950’s
Russian “Crest” ring, double headed eagle on a blue enamel background set with 17 round cut diamonds and multiple single cut diamonds all in a 14K gold mount (56 zolotniks), signed, c. 1905
Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, Art Deco “Heraldic” ring in 18k gold with stylized geometric flanges on either side of the platinum rectangular plaque with an intaglio carved Coat of Arms, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, 9398, c.1930
Paul Flato, (1900-1999) Hollywood, New York (attr.) “Cluster” ring in 18K yellow gold and set with 39 cabochon rubies (approx. 8 carats TW) and further set with a center round brilliant cut diamond (1+ carat TW) and an additional 14 round pave set diamonds in platinum, c. 1940
French Art Deco ring set with two round aquamarines (approx. 6 carats TW), two triangular shape and four baguette diamonds all set in platinum, signed, c. 1930
American Arts & Crafts ring (most likely Boston School) set with a large rectangular shaped pink tourmaline cabochon (approx. 54 carats) set in an elaborate 18k gold handwrought mounting with a garland surround of leaves and scrolling structural ring shank support, c. 1915
European Art Deco whimsical “Dachshund” brooch in 18k gold, green champlevé enamel sweater and eye and set with 18 round-cut diamonds, signed: maker’s touchmark, 750 c. 1930’s
Robert Phillips, London (1810-1881) Archaeological Revival round “Button” brooch in 18k gold set with a large cabochon salmon coral jewel (15mm in depth x 19mm round) and light sky-blue enamel background with a finely detailed twisted gold wire and beaded applied convex round gold border, original leather and green silk velvet and satin presentation box signed: Phillips, 23 Cockspur Street, London, c.1875
Bulgari, Carlo Luca della Quercia Illario (maker) Large flattened “Tubogas” necklace or double bracelet all in 18K gold signed: BULGARI, 750 (for 18K gold), Italian touchmark of a Star, no.2337, A1 (all in a rectangle), SB in a rectangle, 750, circle with a cross through it and a Q (Birmingham Assay and Import marks), original blue leather and suede signed presentation box, c.1970’s
Art Deco “Fire Opal” necklace, frosted rock crystal round beads and four sided custom rock crystal bezels set in 18K yellow gold with 16 round–cut accent diamonds featuring five large natural fire opals (G.I.A certificate, dimension of each fire opal, 13.00 x 8.15 x 6.20mm for a TW of approx. 17.50 carats), c. 1940’s
Paul Brandt, Paris Art Deco “Zig Zag” cigarette case in sterling with champlevé black enamel zig zags on both sides of the case, signed: S A M initials in a triangle French maker’s poincon, French Boar’s head Paris silver assay mark for small objects (2x), London import mark with a London Zodiac sign of Leo (3x), .925 (silver standard) (4x) and the London letter M date mark for 1927 (3x), no. 18347 (2x), British touchmark of a G and an F in a rectangle, C.B.F initials and the date 7-1928 (script engraving), c.1925
Seaman Schepps, New York “Maltese Cross” brooch, one large round cut central citrine (approx. 45 carats) set with 4 large square step-cut citrines (approx. 108 carats TW) and further set with four extra long baguette citrines (approx. 13 carats TW) in a radiating pattern set in 14k yellow gold (total citrine carat weight of 166 carats), signed: Seaman Schepps, 14k, c. 1940’s
An immigrant’s son, who grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side, Seaman Schepps rose to prominence in the 1930s with jewelry designs that challenged the status quo and defined a new style for the American woman. With his chunky brooches, “barbaric” bracelets and “bubble” earrings, Schepps pioneered a unique style of jewelry whose sense of splendor offered a new perspective to the world of fine jewelry.
Witty, over-the-top and flattering, Schepps’ jewelry embodied style and originality and was featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Look and other magazines. It appealed to a myriad of clients from Katherine Hepburn to Andy Warhol to the Duchess of Windsor and greatly influenced his contemporaries. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewelers.
Through the 1930s, and into the 40s and 50s, new clients flocked to him at his store on Madison Avenue. Often clients wanted a one-of-a-kind bauble and commissioned Schepps to incorporate their old jewelry into a fresh new design. Frequently this led to landmark decisions that helped distinguish Schepps as an extraordinary talent. His client list included Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. By serving these most powerful and influential individuals, Schepps became known as “America’s Court Jeweler”.
Mahrokh Beck, Munich, Stylized flower brooch with a large square cut citrine, a smaller square cut citrine, yellow and orange oval citrines, sapphires and cognac diamonds all set in 18K yellow gold, c. 2005
MAHROKH BECK Munich, Germany
Stylized flower brooch c. 2005
Set in 18 K yellow gold with a large square cut citrine (approx. 40 carats TW) and a smaller square cut citrine (approx. 4 carats TW), 2 oval orange citrines, 2 oval yellow citrines, 2 oval sapphires and cognac diamonds
Charlton & Co. (attr.) American Art Deco “Dendrite Agate” jewel cufflinks in an overall hexagonal form further set with caliber cut onyx in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, c. 1920’s
Enrico Serafini, (1913-1968) Italy “Cupid Orchestra” charm bracelet, 18k gold finely detailed cupid figures playing a variety of musical instruments in platinum all on a solid 18k gold link bracelet, touchmark,c.1950
Van Cleef & Arpels, New York gem set floral perfume bottle in 14k rose gold set with 5 round cut natural rubies (approx. 1 carat TW) and one round cut diamond, signed: Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, 2669, 14k, c.1938 (left) &Cartier Art Deco “Candle or Flame” portable perfume bottle in 14k gold, signed: Cartier (script signature), 14k, c.1930’s (right)
Edwardian Era elaborate pendant necklace with a large fancy round-cut natural gem Madeira citrine (approx. 30 carats TW dimensions 20mm x 20mm x 16mm, GIA certificate) in a fine milligrain platinum mount with stylized leaves and flower blossoms and a bow all set with 83 old European round-cut diamonds (approx. 4.65 carats TW) suspended from the matching and period platinum chain, c.1900
Italian classic “Curb Link” chain necklace in solid platinum, marked: Italy, 950 in a cartouche and the word, Fancy, Length: 22 an ¼ inches x Width: 11/16 inches, c. 1970’s
Gorham Sterling “Exotic” Tea and Coffee Set in Original Presentation Chest 1880
GORHAM MFG. CO SILVERSMITHS Providence, RI
“Exotic” tea and coffee set in original Gorham presentation chest 1880
Sterling silver 5-piece service with “butler” finish, bright-cut chasing and repoussé surface in the Far Eastern exotic style with elephant trunk spouts and handle forms, tent-like splayed lids, interior gilding, engraved conjoined initials, bone spacers in the original deep teal velvet-covered presentation chest with hot pink silk- satin interior
Marks: Gorham marks, STERLING, 1560, “M” (date mark for 1880)
Lid of case interior stamped in gold: Gorham Mfg. Co., Sterling Silver, Union Square, NY
For related pieces and further information see: Gorham Silver 1831-1981, Charles H. Carpenter, Jr., Chapter 6, “Innovation and Fantasy”, p. 94-121 (New York: Dodd, Mead & Company, 1982); In Pursuit of Beauty: Americans and the Aesthetic Movement, Chapter 8,“Metalwork: An Eclectic Aesthetic” by David Hanks, p.253-294 (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Rizzoli, 1987); Silver in America, 1840-1940: A Century of Splendor, Charles L. Venable, Chapter 6, “Consumption and Design” p.123-204, (New York: Dallas Museum of Art, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1995).
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