Boucheron “Renaissance Revival” cuff / bracelet, attributed to a design by Paul Legrand and made by Tissot, highly sculptural gold inlay, damascene steel set with an intricately agate carved cameo c. 1878
French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato “Bow” bracelet, 18K yellow gold set with 57 cabochon rubies (approx. 55 carats TW) and 57 round diamonds (approx. 7.50 carats TW) c. 1938
Mauboussin, Paris extremely flexible bracelet set with demantoid garnets (285 count, approximately 20 carats total weight) and diamonds (114 count approximately 8 carats total weight) all set in 18K gold hexagon shaped individual bezels and clasp, signed: Mauboussin maker’s mark (2x), 750 (18K gold mark), French Eagle’s head mark for 18K gold, c. 1950
European gem set butterfly brooch with rubies, emeralds (3.5 carats TW), diamonds, opals, a sapphire (4 carats TW) and a garnet (5 carats TW) in 18K gold, c. 1880’s
Belle Epoque large cabochon Amethyst pendant brooch (approx. 100+ carats TW) set with old mine cut diamonds and 2 fine old round cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) all in a silver top gold mounting, c. 1895
Rene Boivin (attr.) French Art Deco brooch set with a large rectangular aquamarine and diamonds set in a geometric platinum and matte finish 18K yellow gold, signed c. 1930’s
Rene Boivin, Paris, “Art Moderne” ring set with an oval sapphire (approx. 2+ carats TW) and further set with 22 tapered and full sapphire baguettes (approx. 3 carats TW) and 18 round cut diamonds (approx. 2+ carats TW) all set in a streamlined and contoured platinum mount, signed, certificate, c.1930’s
Asian Art Nouveau inspired “Frog on a Lily Pad” ring, 18K white gold with a gunmetal surface, cabochon amethyst petals, a three dimensional frogs pave set with tsavorites and sapphire eyes, diamond details, marked, c. 2005
Cartier clip / brooch, 6 large oval orange citrines with buff cut citrines encircling the oval cluster, buff cut baguette citrines and diamonds set in platinum, signed Cartier, 0510, c. 1930
Joseph Kutchinsky, London (1914-2000) “Wrapped Cloth” ring in 18K yellow gold with a platinum tapered rectangular form pave set with 37 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) , signed, 1973 (London gold mark small “s” for 1973) (illustrated: Christie’s Twentieth-Century Jewelry, Sally Everitt and David Lancaster (New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 2002) p.113.
Cartier, Paris “Elephant” Maillon Panthere bracelet in 18k gold and set with 200 round cut diamonds (approx. 10 carats TW) and three round cut emeralds for the eyes, signed: Cartier (script signature), no. 641403, 750, French Eagle’s head assay mark for 18k gold (3x), maker’s mark in a diamond cartouche, c.1980’s
Pierre Sterlé Paris, “Hummingbird” brooch, carved natural ruby in zoisite mounted in 18K gold set with diamonds set in platinum, original suede box, signed, c. 1950’s
Paul Flato (attr.) “Dolores del Rio” cuff bracelet, 3 large rectangular citrines (approx. 200+ carats) and pave diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) set in 18K yellow gold and platinum,(G.I.A. certificate) c. 1940
Provenance: Dolores del Rio
Illustrated: “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker(Assouline, 2015)
Shreve & Co., San Francisco Art Deco ring set with a trio of round cut diamonds (approx. 2 1/4 carats TW) set in platinum with caliber cut onyx surrounding the three diamonds and further set with four round cut diamonds flanking either side of the ring shank, signed: Shreve & Co., 950, Platinum, c.1930
Art Deco ruby and diamond ring set in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, four round diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) set with 20 square and caliber cut natural rubies (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with 34 round diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) c.1920
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 10.00 x 9.70 x 8.00mm, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with diamonds, original leather box, signed c. 1925
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) with diamond pave work filling out the surrounding floral motif, original leather box, signed and numbered, c. 1925
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
Sigmund Zuckermandl, Vienna, “Cherry Blossom” brooch, enameled 18K gold set with diamonds and pink tourmalines further set with a large round pink tourmaline as a hanging lantern and a pearl, signed, c. 1890
American Retro “Leaf” brooches, Burma sapphires (approx. 12+ carats), cabochon rubies (approx. 12+ carats) and baguette and round diamonds all set in 18K gold and platinum, marked, c. 1950
Walter P. McTeigue Penguin brooch, platinum set with pave diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW), 18k gold body further set with two cabochon emerald eyes, signed, c.1940’s
European Modernist ring set with three round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and further set with 34 diamonds (approx. 4 carats TW) in three platinum sections on a 14K gold ring, signed, c.1930
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
Seaman Schepps “Grape” cluster clip/brooch set with 9 large cabochon sapphires (approx. 85+ carats TW), 5 large cabochon emeralds (approx. 35+ carats TW) and 13 round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) set in a 14K yellow mounting with leaves and vines, signed Seaman Schepps and 14k, Dimensions: 2 3/4 inches long x 2 1/4 inches wide, c. 1940
***This is a closely related “Grape” cluster clip/brooch model that Seaman Schepps made on commission for the eminent socialite Doris Duke (Collection Seaman Schepps, but there is a predominance of dark blue and purple cabochon sapphires in the DD brooch as opposed to the predominance of larger and more translucent cabochon sapphires as well as cabochon emeralds in this example
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