French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
Suzanne Belperron / Groene et Darde Paris, Pair of multi stone rings, five oval cut citrines and five oval cut amethysts all set in 18K gold further set with platinum mounted diamonds, signed, c. 1940’s / early 1950’s
Pierre Sterlé Paris, “Hummingbird” brooch, carved natural ruby in zoisite mounted in 18K gold set with diamonds set in platinum, original suede box, signed, c. 1950’s
Maison Ostertag Important French Art Deco Jewel Mounted Covered Box c.1925
MAISON OSTERTAG (Place Vendome, Paris) 1920’s and 30’s
ARNOLD OSTERTAG (Jeweler / Designer)
VERGER FRERES (maker)
Art Deco jewel mounted mechanical covered box c. 1925
Of rectangular stepped form, the black enamel box hinged and accented at the top with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral; spring loaded to pull down and reveal a cinnabar red enamel interior, the exterior with gold champlevé set highly stylized geometric initials and further ornamented with geometric square cut out gold applied handles embellished with salmon coral beads and red enamel bands, all resting on a recessed agate base and conforming black onyx base punctuated with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral on each corner.
Marks: Ostertag (on a gold plaque inset into the underside of the onyx base)
H: 4″ x W: 3 1/2″ x D: 3 1/2″
Arnold Ostertag was a Swiss-born jeweler who became a dominant force in the creation of fine jewels and objects in Paris during the 1920s and 30s. After studying dentistry in Chicago, Ostertag embarked on a world tour and, while traveling through India, became fascinated by jewels. He later settled in Paris and opened a very successful salon on the Place Vendome. In design and quality, Ostertag’s jewels, which frequently featured Indian themes, rivaled the production of many of the most famous Parisian jewelry houses. In fact, the renowned clockmaker George Verger/Verger Freres, produced wonderful clocks and mechanical objects for Ostertag, as well as for many other world renowned jewelers and likely masterminded the mechanism of the Art Deco box above. In addition to making pieces for Ostertag, Maison Verger made pieces for Cartier, LaCloche, Marzo, Boucheron, Hermes, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Mauboussin, etc. Arnold Ostertag was popular on the international front and made many trips to America spending time in both New York, as well as Los Angeles where he befriended many Hollywood stars. He also received commissions during his trips to make exquisite custom jewelry and precious jeweled objects such as this fine Art Deco box.
Andrew Grima “Comet” ring, Asymmetric cut citrine mounted in 18K textured yellow gold, five diamonds, signed: GRIMA, 0.750 (in a rectangle cartouche, AG Limited (in a rectangular cartouche), Crown, 18, Lion’s Head (for London), q (date mark for 1971), 1971
Black Starr & Frost American Art Nouveau Sterling Mounted Jewelry Box c.1900
BLACK STARR & FROST New York, NY
Art Nouveau Sterling and Mahogany Jewelry Box c.1900
Mahogany jewelry box with thick sterling silver decorative graphic mountings in an elaborate Art Nouveau whiplash design, original key
Marks: Eagle mark (Company logo) BLACK STARR & FROST, Sterling
For more information see: American Jewelry Manufacturers, Dorothy T. Rainwater (West Chester, Penn.: Schiffer, 1988)
H: 4 1/2″ x W: 10 1/2″ x D: 7″
SOLD
One of America’s oldest fine jewelers, Black, Starr and Frost traces its roots to 1810. In that year, Erastus Barton and Frederick Marquand opened Marquand and Barton near New York’s Maiden Lane. The firm added and lost partners numerous times and it also frequently moved locations in accordance with the addresses of its prestigious clientele. Its merchandise was eclectic and greatly varied including, lamps, jewelry, paintings, porcelain, and artistic objects. In 1876, the firm changed its name from Black, Ball, and Co. to Black, Starr, and Frost, and moved to 251 Fifth Avenue. Its inventory became focused on jewelry and silver objects, some imported from Europe, some produced in-house. For many decades, the renowned jewelry house, Black, Starr, and Frost was considered one of the great American jewelers. In 1876, it was invited to exhibit at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia along with renowned firms like Tiffany & Company, Whiting, and Gorham. In 1939, the firm was one of five American jewelers invited to exhibit at the New York’s World’s Fair. In 1929, it merged with Gorham to become Black, Starr, Frost – Gorham.
Henry van de Velde Silver mounted Eugene Baudin French Art Nouveau vase c. 1900
HENRY VAN DE VELDE (1863-1957) Belgium (design mount)
for “LA MAISON MODERNE” Paris, France
ALPHONSE-EDOUARD DEBAIN France (execution mount)
EUGÈNE BAUDIN (1853-1918) France (pottery)
Vase c. 1900
Matte-glazed pottery, cranberry bright turquoise and white highlights, elaborate Art Nouveau whiplash silver mount.
Marks: E Baudin, AD (silversmith monogram), French 950 silver assay mark
For more information on van de Velde ceramics see: Ceramics of the 20th Century, Tamara Préaud and Serge Gauthier (New York: Rizzoli, 1982) illus. no. 67, p.42; Art Nouveau and Art Deco Silver, Annelies Krekel-Aalberse (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.,1989), pp. 63, 90, 264.
For other A-E. Debain designs see: The Paris Salons 1895-1914, Vol. V: Objets d’Art & Metalware, Alastair Duncan (Woodbridge, Suffolk: Antique Collectors’ Club, 1999), p. 208.
For related Van de Velde mount designs see: Jugendstil, Irmela Franzke (Munich: Battenberg Verlag, 1987), illus. 169, p. 87.
H: 8 1/4” x W: 4”
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