Cartier, Important jabot brooch, fan shaped with round and baguette shaped diamonds (Indian Royal Briolette diamond, 6.11 carats, G.I.A. certificate) set in platinum, original leather box, signed, c. 1925
French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
Suzanne Belperron / Groene et Darde Paris, Pair of multi stone rings, five oval cut citrines and five oval cut amethysts all set in 18K gold further set with platinum mounted diamonds, signed, c. 1940’s / early 1950’s
Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato “Bow” bracelet, 18K yellow gold set with 57 cabochon rubies (approx. 55 carats TW) and 57 round diamonds (approx. 7.50 carats TW) c. 1938
“Cat’s Eyes” bombe clip earrings, 72 fine and rare color cabochon chrysoberyl “Cat’s Eyes” and 12 interspersed diamonds, all set in 18k gold, marked, c. 1950’s
Mauboussin, Paris extremely flexible bracelet set with demantoid garnets (285 count, approximately 20 carats total weight) and diamonds (114 count approximately 8 carats total weight) all set in 18K gold hexagon shaped individual bezels and clasp, signed: Mauboussin maker’s mark (2x), 750 (18K gold mark), French Eagle’s head mark for 18K gold, c. 1950
Belle Epoque large cabochon Amethyst pendant brooch (approx. 100+ carats TW) set with old mine cut diamonds and 2 fine old round cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) all in a silver top gold mounting, c. 1895
Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) Art Deco “Pennanular” brooch, onyx and black and enameled 18k gold further set with 53 diamonds in arcing details set in platinum with three ovoid Persian turquoise cabochons, signed, c.1920’s
Theodore B. Starr (attr.) American Art Nouveau brooch, High style openwork graphic design in 18k gold and set with two large oval cabochon emeralds and one tear drop emerald (20 carats TW) with 144 old European round cut diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) and six small cabochon emeralds as accents, c. 1900
French Retro “Bird” brooch set with a large oval gem quality “Rubellite”/ Tourmaline (approx. 9 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 15.20 x 11.55x 7.90mm, no heat), sapphires, diamonds and an emerald eye all set in 18K yellow gold, marked, c. 1940’s
Rene Boivin (attr.) French Art Deco brooch set with a large rectangular aquamarine and diamonds set in a geometric platinum and matte finish 18K yellow gold, signed c. 1930’s
Cartier clip / brooch, 6 large oval orange citrines with buff cut citrines encircling the oval cluster, buff cut baguette citrines and diamonds set in platinum, signed Cartier, 0510, c. 1930
Cartier, Paris “Elephant” Maillon Panthere bracelet in 18k gold and set with 200 round cut diamonds (approx. 10 carats TW) and three round cut emeralds for the eyes, signed: Cartier (script signature), no. 641403, 750, French Eagle’s head assay mark for 18k gold (3x), maker’s mark in a diamond cartouche, c.1980’s
Piaget “Day and Night” flower bracelet with articulated petals and en tremblent stamens, 18K yellow gold and set with diamonds (approx. 4 carats), signed: J L in a diamond French maker’s mark, French Mercury mark for 18k and made for Export (3x), Made in France, c. 1950’s
Bismarck Family Crown – House of Koch, Chignon crown, Moonstones and diamonds set in an elaborate platinum mount, original leather box, c. 1900
BISMARCK FAMILY CROWN
HOUSE OF KOCH Germany
Chignon crown c. 1900
Moonstones and diamonds set in an elaborate platinum mount, original leather box
The renowned “House of Koch” made this remarkable bejeweled chignon for the Bismarck family of Lauenburg, Germany. It is an early example of exquisite work in platinum and is set with cabochon moonstones and rose cut diamonds. The jewelry firm, known as the “House of Koch” was founded by Robert and Louis Koch in 1879 in Frankfurt, Germany with a branch in Baden-Baden. By 1883, the jewelers had earned the coveted title of Jeweler of the Court of Frankfurt and crafted jewels for many European Royal families. In fact, their jewels were famous across Europe, and their fashionable styles were worn in the courts of several European royals including the King of Italy and the Czar of Russia. By the time Robert Bosch had assumed control of the firm in 1938, the Koch family was forced to “Aryanize” their jewelry house. It was common during the late nineteenth Century for prestigious families to retool old antique heirloom pieces to bring them up to contemporary fashion standards and since this chignon has characteristics of both the 18th and the 19th Century jewelry, it was likely made from older pieces owned by the Bismarck family. The company closed doors in 1987 and jewels from the great time of the House of Koch are very much sought after in today’s antique jewelry market.
Neil Lane “Eternity” ring, 15 Asscher cut diamonds (approx. 12 carats TW, G color VS clarity), 216 round diamonds (.64 carats G color VS clarity), signed, c. 2007
Pierre Sterlé Paris, “Hummingbird” brooch, carved natural ruby in zoisite mounted in 18K gold set with diamonds set in platinum, original suede box, signed, c. 1950’s
Paul Flato (attr.) “Dolores del Rio” cuff bracelet, 3 large rectangular citrines (approx. 200+ carats) and pave diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) set in 18K yellow gold and platinum,(G.I.A. certificate) c. 1940
Provenance: Dolores del Rio
Illustrated: “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker(Assouline, 2015)
Shreve & Co., San Francisco Art Deco ring set with a trio of round cut diamonds (approx. 2 1/4 carats TW) set in platinum with caliber cut onyx surrounding the three diamonds and further set with four round cut diamonds flanking either side of the ring shank, signed: Shreve & Co., 950, Platinum, c.1930
American Art Deco, cabochon emerald (approx. 14 carats TW) 18K rose gold ring with a large concave half dome surround and ring shank with two flanges on either side further set with 14 diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW), c. 1935
American Art Deco ring set with a large gem quality emerald step-cut aquamarine (approx. 15 carats by calculation with the dimensions of 17mm x 13mm x 10mm depth) and 10 round cut diamonds (approx. half of a carat TW) all set in a platinum “Bow tie” design mount, signed: FFF framed with a triangle facing in on either side (maker’s mark), Plat (platinum mark), c.1935
Art Deco ruby and diamond ring set in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, four round diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) set with 20 square and caliber cut natural rubies (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with 34 round diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) c.1920
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 10.00 x 9.70 x 8.00mm, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with diamonds, original leather box, signed c. 1925
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) with diamond pave work filling out the surrounding floral motif, original leather box, signed and numbered, c. 1925
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
Sigmund Zuckermandl, Vienna, “Cherry Blossom” brooch, enameled 18K gold set with diamonds and pink tourmalines further set with a large round pink tourmaline as a hanging lantern and a pearl, signed, c. 1890
American Retro “Leaf” brooches, Burma sapphires (approx. 12+ carats), cabochon rubies (approx. 12+ carats) and baguette and round diamonds all set in 18K gold and platinum, marked, c. 1950
Walter P. McTeigue Penguin brooch, platinum set with pave diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW), 18k gold body further set with two cabochon emerald eyes, signed, c.1940’s
Auger & Gueret (Alphonse Auger et Antoine Gueret) , Paris, “Grasshopper” brooch in finely detailed 18K gold, enamel and rose cut diamonds, original leather box, signed, c. 1895
European Modernist ring set with three round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and further set with 34 diamonds (approx. 4 carats TW) in three platinum sections on a 14K gold ring, signed, c.1930
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
American Pendant “Knot” earrings set with two natural cabochon sapphires (GIA certificate, approximately 6 carats TW) and further set with 50 round diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) and 48 baguette, square and tapered diamonds (approx. 7 carats TW) all set in platinum mounts, marked, c.1950
Seaman Schepps “Grape” cluster clip/brooch set with 9 large cabochon sapphires (approx. 85+ carats TW), 5 large cabochon emeralds (approx. 35+ carats TW) and 13 round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) set in a 14K yellow mounting with leaves and vines, signed Seaman Schepps and 14k, Dimensions: 2 3/4 inches long x 2 1/4 inches wide, c. 1940
***This is a closely related “Grape” cluster clip/brooch model that Seaman Schepps made on commission for the eminent socialite Doris Duke (Collection Seaman Schepps, but there is a predominance of dark blue and purple cabochon sapphires in the DD brooch as opposed to the predominance of larger and more translucent cabochon sapphires as well as cabochon emeralds in this example
Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau brooch, “Tibula” shaped 18k yellow gold brooch set with three natural pearls, the natural center button pearl approx. 10 mm in diameter (G.I.A. certificate, 3 natural freshwater pearls, weight 24.90 grams, measurement range from 5.46 to 12.26mm), 16 sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the two large and high dome middle sapphires with a purple hue, 20 pave set round diamonds all surrounded with clear plique-a-jour further trapped with platinum flakes, signed c. 1897
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