Udall & Ballou “Scottie” dog brooch set with 62 round cut diamonds (approx. 5 carats TW), two triangle shaped diamonds, one diamond shaped diamond, black enamel and onyx all set in platinum, c.1930
French 19th Century “Gothic Revival” ring set with a very fine square step cut emerald (approx. 2 carats TW) and two European rose cut diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) all in an openwork 18K yellow gold mount further set with 12 old mine cut diamonds, signed, c.1885
Burma, “Naga” dragon ring, high carat gold (22K +) enameled and set with 27 cabochons consisting of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds and other precious stones, second half 18th Century
These impressive and rare dragon rings have been a feature of all the great ring collections, including the Harari, Guilhou, Spitzer, Franks, and Koch collections. They are known as ‘Naga rings’ because they are thought to represent the naga dragon which is thought to have sheltered the Buddha during a prolonged period of meditation. Chadour suggests that these rings were made for Royalty. The extravagant design certainly re-enforces the idea that they were made for lavish ceremonial use. Another example is in the British Museum.
Lacloche Freres, Paris (attr.) Tutti Frutti “Bouquet of Flowers” ring set with two Mughal carved sapphire flower/leaf shaped jewels and further set with a matching cabochon sapphire, 11 baguette diamonds, 22 round cut diamonds and two golden hued pearls all in a very intricately detailed platinum mount, c.1920’s
Imperial topaz (26 carats) solitaire ring set in platinum with two elongated baguette diamonds, signed: L and M French maker’s mark in a diamond poincon, French Dog’s head assay mark for platinum, c.1950
French Art Deco Interlocking ring, Invisibly set rectangular sapphires (10 count, approx. 2.50 carats TW), pave diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) all set in a platinum mount, c. 1935
American Art Deco ring (likely by Louis C. Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.) set with a large blue zircon (approx. 64 carats by calculation, 20mm x 20mm x 19mm) set in a fancy platinum mount further set with 14 round cut diamonds, four bullet shaped gold/orange citrines and two kite shaped gold/orange citrines, marked: very deeply stamped letters as a maker’s mark on the inside of the shank, c. 1930
***Top quality gem blue zircons over 10 carats trade at a minimum price of $200 per carat and go up from there depending on the size of the stone and the quality of the color. Blue zircon, the most popular color, is produced by heat treatment of brown zircon. But not all brown zircon will turn blue when heated; only some zircon has the right physical structure for this to occur. This is why most blue zircon comes from certain sources in Cambodia or Burma. Blue zircon is a reasonably hard gem with a Mohs hardness of about 7 to 7.5. Blue zircon has some unique properties that make it very popular with gemstone aficionados. Not only does zircon have outstanding brilliance, but it also has very strong dispersion or fire, the tendency to split white light into the spectral colors. Zircon also has very pronounced birefringence or double refraction, with a wide variance between the two refractive indices. This can be often be observed with the naked eye when you look down through the table of a cut zircon; you will observe facet doubling that makes the facet edges appear blurred.
Neil Lane solitaire “Cognac” orange/brown diamond ring (1.87 carats natural color, GIA certificate) set in a double loop through design all in 18k gold with micro pave work throughout, signed, c.2006
Art Deco Emerald step cut diamond solitaire ring, center cut emerald diamond (3 carats 10.30 x 7.20 x 4.3mm, Clarity VS-1, Color I/J, UGL certificate), with surrounding round brilliant cut diamonds, French cut natural sapphires (approx. 0.60 carats), all set in platinum mounting, c. 1930’s
Andrew Grima “Comet” ring, Asymmetric cut citrine mounted in 18K textured yellow gold, five diamonds, signed: GRIMA, 0.750 (in a rectangle cartouche, AG Limited (in a rectangular cartouche), Crown, 18, Lion’s Head (for London), q (date mark for 1971), 1971
French 1950’s “Turban Style” ring, large pearl (G.I.A. certificate, Weight of the pearl: 16 grams, bead cultured pearl, saltwater, drop shape, white color, “Orient” overtone) and fancy diamond ring set with two triangle diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and 48 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) all set in platinum, signed
Chanel, Paris “Camellia” 18k yellow gold articulated blossom ring set with 75 round full-cut white diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW) and 101 round full-cut yellow diamonds (approx. 1.00 carat TW) and 94 round full-cut demantoid garnets (approx. 1.00 carat TW) all in 24 heart shaped hinged and moveable flower petals with a central cluster of 7 round full-cut diamonds, signed: Chanel in a rectangle, 750 in a cartouche, size: 7 1/4, c. 1980’s
Stylized “Grape Cluster” brooch with platinum grapes set with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3.50 carats TW) and highly textured and detailed 18k gold leaves and vines, c.1980’s
Neil Lane “Egyptian Motif” ring, step-cut emerald shaped Peridot (approx. 18+ carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 18.55 x 14.85 x7.90mm) 18K gold with pave set diamonds, signed, c. 2008
Neil Lane Couture, large rectangular step-cut natural gem Peridot (18.12 carats, dimensions 18.55mm x 14.85mm x 7.90mm, GIA certificate) in an elaborate 18k gold “Egyptian” motif mounting set with 158 full, round-cut small diamonds (approx. 1.58 carats TW) and signed by Neil Lane, c. 2008
Champagne “Mughal” Diamond ring, Round rose cut fancy light to fancy brownish yellow natural color center diamond (G.I.A. certificate, 5.50 carats) encircled with 12 old mine cut brilliant diamonds (G.I.A. certificate, near colorless approx. 8 carats TW) and 12 small round old mine cut diamonds all set in white and yellow gold, mid 19th Century
French Art Deco ring set with a fine jadeite oval cabochon, faceted and caliber cut onyx, and further set with 18 round diamonds and six square French-cut diamonds all set in a millegrain platinum mount, c. 1920’s
American Art Nouveau “Green Heart” ring set with a heart shaped peridot (approx.15 carats) surrounded with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3 ½ carats TW) all set in an 18K gold mounting, c.1900
Guebelin Switzerland “Half moon” ring in 18K white brushed gold set with a large cabochon oval moonstone, two crescent moon shaped inset lapis lazuli stones and further set with two tapered baguette diamonds on either side, signed with the Guebelin cipher, 750 and Swiss, c. 1950’s
Russian “Crest” ring, double headed eagle on a blue enamel background set with 17 round cut diamonds and multiple single cut diamonds all in a 14K gold mount (56 zolotniks), signed, c. 1905
French Art Deco ring set with two round aquamarines (approx. 6 carats TW), two triangular shape and four baguette diamonds all set in platinum, signed, c. 1930
Cartier Paris “Heart” ring, 18K gold set with 45 round diamonds (approx. 2.5 carats TW), signed: Cartier Paris, 291746, 750, 49 (ring size), French eagle’s head mark for 18K gold, c. 1980’s
American “Night & Day” pendant earrings, two black pearls suspended from fancy detachable pendants with a bow motif earrings all set in platinum with approx. 134 round diamonds and four baguette diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW), c. 1935
Marcus & Co Art Nouveau pendant necklace, Handwrought 18K yellow gold set with a large cabochon natural emerald center stone surrounded by green enamel details with gold looping bezel mounts and platinum topped diamond side details set with 43 diamonds, cabochon emerald pendant drop with a green enamel and gold capped top, signed, c. 1900
Marcus & Co Art Nouveau pendant necklace, Handwrought 18 K yellow gold set with a large cabochon natural emerald center stone (approx. 30+ carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, moderate clarity enhancement, 18.30 x 18.20 x 12.20mm) surrounded by green enamel details with gold looping bezel mounts and platinum topped diamond side details set with 43 diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW), cabochon emerald pendant drop (approx. 15 carats TW) with a green enamel and gold capped top, elaborate looping 18K yellow gold chain, signed, c. 1900
European Art Deco whimsical “Dachshund” brooch in 18k gold, green champlevé enamel sweater and eye and set with 18 round-cut diamonds, signed: maker’s touchmark, 750 c. 1930’s
Gustav Manz (designer) for Thomas Kirkpatrick & Co., Fifth Avenue, NYC Art Deco Butterfly brooch, 12 baguette diamonds and 83 round diamonds (approx. 11 carats TW), 22 contoured and buff cut sapphires and 10 contoured and buff cut peridot, black enamel details all set in platinum, signed, c. 1920’s
Tiffany & Co. “Prince of Wales’ Feathers” made during the reign of Edward VII (he held his title of the Prince of Wales longer than anyone before him and was King of England from 1901 to 1910) brooch pave set with 123 round-cut diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) and all set in a three dimensional brooch of platinum topped gold, signed: Tiffany & Co., c.1900
W. Truman Ltd. / Peter Truman for The Goldsmith’s Company “Chrysanthemum” brooch in platinum and diamonds and natural Mississippi pearls, retailed by Tiffany & Co. New York, signed, c. 2000
Waslikoff & Sons, Inc., New York (active 1920’s to 1950, 48th Street) Art Deco bracelet set with one large oval aquamarine, 6 large emerald-cut aquamarines and 16 French cut aquamarines (approx. 30 carats TW for the 23 aquamarines) together with 60 round-cut diamonds and 6 baguette diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW for the 66 diamonds) all set in platinum, signed, c. 1930’s
Cartier, London “Star of David with Lion Rampant Brochant/Lord Nathan” lapel brooch set with calibre-cut sapphires in platinum in the shape of The Star of David with an 18k gold yellow gold crowned and finely detailed sculptural Lion Rampant Brochant overlaid on the Star of David, commissioned by Lord Nathan from Cartier London in 1946, signed: Cartier, London (script signature), original signed Cartier leather presentation box
Lord Nathan (1889-1963), Harry Louis Nathan, 1stBaron Nathan, was born in London in 1889 and was the son of Michael Henry Nathan, a fine art publisher and J.P. (Justice of Peace) He was educated at St. Paul’s School and became honorary secretary of the Brady Working Lads’ Club, the oldest and largest of the London Jewish Lads’ Clubs (J.L.G.B). Nathan served in World War I, leaving with the rank of Major. He was first elected in 1929 as M.P. (Member of Parliament) for Bethnal Green North East and was re-elected in 1931. Along with many other Anglo-Jewish communal leaders, Nathan was a founding member of the Central British Fund for German Jewry (now World Jewish Relief Fund). He was created a hereditary peer as Baron Nathan of Churt in the County of Surrey on June 28th, 1940. He continued in active politics from the House of Lords, serving as Under-Secretary of State for War (1945-1946) and Minister for Civil Aviation (October 4, 1946-May 31st, 1948). He was made a Privy Counsellor in 1946. This lapel brooch was commissioned by Lord Nathan from Cartier London in 1945/46 and descended in his family.
Mahrokh Beck, Munich, Stylized flower brooch with a large square cut citrine, a smaller square cut citrine, yellow and orange oval citrines, sapphires and cognac diamonds all set in 18K yellow gold, c. 2005
MAHROKH BECK Munich, Germany
Stylized flower brooch c. 2005
Set in 18 K yellow gold with a large square cut citrine (approx. 40 carats TW) and a smaller square cut citrine (approx. 4 carats TW), 2 oval orange citrines, 2 oval yellow citrines, 2 oval sapphires and cognac diamonds
Enrico Serafini, Pair of “Water Sprites”, 18K Yellow and White gold set with 22 round diamonds, approx.2 ½ carats TW, Signed: E. Serafini, 750 (both signed), c. 1950’s
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