Cartier, Important jabot brooch, fan shaped with round and baguette shaped diamonds (Indian Royal Briolette diamond, 6.11 carats, G.I.A. certificate) set in platinum, original leather box, signed, c. 1925
French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato “Bow” bracelet, 18K yellow gold set with 57 cabochon rubies (approx. 55 carats TW) and 57 round diamonds (approx. 7.50 carats TW) c. 1938
Belle Epoque large cabochon Amethyst pendant brooch (approx. 100+ carats TW) set with old mine cut diamonds and 2 fine old round cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) all in a silver top gold mounting, c. 1895
Cartier, Paris “Elephant” Maillon Panthere bracelet in 18k gold and set with 200 round cut diamonds (approx. 10 carats TW) and three round cut emeralds for the eyes, signed: Cartier (script signature), no. 641403, 750, French Eagle’s head assay mark for 18k gold (3x), maker’s mark in a diamond cartouche, c.1980’s
Neil Lane “Eternity” ring, 15 Asscher cut diamonds (approx. 12 carats TW, G color VS clarity), 216 round diamonds (.64 carats G color VS clarity), signed, c. 2007
Shreve & Co., San Francisco Art Deco ring set with a trio of round cut diamonds (approx. 2 1/4 carats TW) set in platinum with caliber cut onyx surrounding the three diamonds and further set with four round cut diamonds flanking either side of the ring shank, signed: Shreve & Co., 950, Platinum, c.1930
American Art Deco ring set with a large gem quality emerald step-cut aquamarine (approx. 15 carats by calculation with the dimensions of 17mm x 13mm x 10mm depth) and 10 round cut diamonds (approx. half of a carat TW) all set in a platinum “Bow tie” design mount, signed: FFF framed with a triangle facing in on either side (maker’s mark), Plat (platinum mark), c.1935
Art Deco ruby and diamond ring set in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, four round diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) set with 20 square and caliber cut natural rubies (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with 34 round diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) c.1920
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
American Retro “Leaf” brooches, Burma sapphires (approx. 12+ carats), cabochon rubies (approx. 12+ carats) and baguette and round diamonds all set in 18K gold and platinum, marked, c. 1950
European Modernist ring set with three round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and further set with 34 diamonds (approx. 4 carats TW) in three platinum sections on a 14K gold ring, signed, c.1930
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau brooch, “Tibula” shaped 18k yellow gold brooch set with three natural pearls, the natural center button pearl approx. 10 mm in diameter (G.I.A. certificate, 3 natural freshwater pearls, weight 24.90 grams, measurement range from 5.46 to 12.26mm), 16 sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the two large and high dome middle sapphires with a purple hue, 20 pave set round diamonds all surrounded with clear plique-a-jour further trapped with platinum flakes, signed c. 1897
Egyptian Revival “Double Ibis” highly detailed 18k gold brooch in the form of two Ibis with hanging fringe feathers set with a round cabochon emerald (approx. 5 carats) and a round cabochon ruby (approx. 6 carats), c. 1920
American Art Deco ring (likely by Louis C. Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.) set with a large blue zircon (approx. 64 carats by calculation, 20mm x 20mm x 19mm) set in a fancy platinum mount further set with 14 round cut diamonds, four bullet shaped gold/orange citrines and two kite shaped gold/orange citrines, marked: very deeply stamped letters as a maker’s mark on the inside of the shank, c. 1930
***Top quality gem blue zircons over 10 carats trade at a minimum price of $200 per carat and go up from there depending on the size of the stone and the quality of the color. Blue zircon, the most popular color, is produced by heat treatment of brown zircon. But not all brown zircon will turn blue when heated; only some zircon has the right physical structure for this to occur. This is why most blue zircon comes from certain sources in Cambodia or Burma. Blue zircon is a reasonably hard gem with a Mohs hardness of about 7 to 7.5. Blue zircon has some unique properties that make it very popular with gemstone aficionados. Not only does zircon have outstanding brilliance, but it also has very strong dispersion or fire, the tendency to split white light into the spectral colors. Zircon also has very pronounced birefringence or double refraction, with a wide variance between the two refractive indices. This can be often be observed with the naked eye when you look down through the table of a cut zircon; you will observe facet doubling that makes the facet edges appear blurred.
Art Deco Emerald step cut diamond solitaire ring, center cut emerald diamond (3 carats 10.30 x 7.20 x 4.3mm, Clarity VS-1, Color I/J, UGL certificate), with surrounding round brilliant cut diamonds, French cut natural sapphires (approx. 0.60 carats), all set in platinum mounting, c. 1930’s
French 1950’s “Turban Style” ring, large pearl (G.I.A. certificate, Weight of the pearl: 16 grams, bead cultured pearl, saltwater, drop shape, white color, “Orient” overtone) and fancy diamond ring set with two triangle diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and 48 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) all set in platinum, signed
Stylized “Grape Cluster” brooch with platinum grapes set with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3.50 carats TW) and highly textured and detailed 18k gold leaves and vines, c.1980’s
French Art Deco Diamond and sapphire ring, Round rose cut diamond (approx. 3 carats) set with sapphires (approx. 1.5 carats TW) in a platinum mount, signed, c. 1930
Champagne “Mughal” Diamond ring, Round rose cut fancy light to fancy brownish yellow natural color center diamond (G.I.A. certificate, 5.50 carats) encircled with 12 old mine cut brilliant diamonds (G.I.A. certificate, near colorless approx. 8 carats TW) and 12 small round old mine cut diamonds all set in white and yellow gold, mid 19th Century
French Art Deco ring set with a fine jadeite oval cabochon, faceted and caliber cut onyx, and further set with 18 round diamonds and six square French-cut diamonds all set in a millegrain platinum mount, c. 1920’s
American Art Nouveau “Green Heart” ring set with a heart shaped peridot (approx.15 carats) surrounded with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3 ½ carats TW) all set in an 18K gold mounting, c.1900
Russian “Crest” ring, double headed eagle on a blue enamel background set with 17 round cut diamonds and multiple single cut diamonds all in a 14K gold mount (56 zolotniks), signed, c. 1905
French Art Deco ring set with two round aquamarines (approx. 6 carats TW), two triangular shape and four baguette diamonds all set in platinum, signed, c. 1930
American “Night & Day” pendant earrings, two black pearls suspended from fancy detachable pendants with a bow motif earrings all set in platinum with approx. 134 round diamonds and four baguette diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW), c. 1935
Robert Phillips, London (1810-1881) Archaeological Revival round “Button” brooch in 18k gold set with a large cabochon salmon coral jewel (15mm in depth x 19mm round) and light sky-blue enamel background with a finely detailed twisted gold wire and beaded applied convex round gold border, original leather and green silk velvet and satin presentation box signed: Phillips, 23 Cockspur Street, London, c.1875
Munnu Kasliwal for Gem Palace “Flower Blossoms” earrings with 34 rose cut round fire opals (approx. 24 carats TW, center fire opals are 2.30 carats each) set in 22K gold, c. 2000
Art Deco “Fire Opal” necklace, frosted rock crystal round beads and four sided custom rock crystal bezels set in 18K yellow gold with 16 round–cut accent diamonds featuring five large natural fire opals (G.I.A certificate, dimension of each fire opal, 13.00 x 8.15 x 6.20mm for a TW of approx. 17.50 carats), c. 1940’s
Seaman Schepps, New York “Maltese Cross” brooch, one large round cut central citrine (approx. 45 carats) set with 4 large square step-cut citrines (approx. 108 carats TW) and further set with four extra long baguette citrines (approx. 13 carats TW) in a radiating pattern set in 14k yellow gold (total citrine carat weight of 166 carats), signed: Seaman Schepps, 14k, c. 1940’s
An immigrant’s son, who grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side, Seaman Schepps rose to prominence in the 1930s with jewelry designs that challenged the status quo and defined a new style for the American woman. With his chunky brooches, “barbaric” bracelets and “bubble” earrings, Schepps pioneered a unique style of jewelry whose sense of splendor offered a new perspective to the world of fine jewelry.
Witty, over-the-top and flattering, Schepps’ jewelry embodied style and originality and was featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Look and other magazines. It appealed to a myriad of clients from Katherine Hepburn to Andy Warhol to the Duchess of Windsor and greatly influenced his contemporaries. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewelers.
Through the 1930s, and into the 40s and 50s, new clients flocked to him at his store on Madison Avenue. Often clients wanted a one-of-a-kind bauble and commissioned Schepps to incorporate their old jewelry into a fresh new design. Frequently this led to landmark decisions that helped distinguish Schepps as an extraordinary talent. His client list included Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. By serving these most powerful and influential individuals, Schepps became known as “America’s Court Jeweler”.
Van Cleef & Arpels, New York gem set floral perfume bottle in 14k rose gold set with 5 round cut natural rubies (approx. 1 carat TW) and one round cut diamond, signed: Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, 2669, 14k, c.1938 (left) &Cartier Art Deco “Candle or Flame” portable perfume bottle in 14k gold, signed: Cartier (script signature), 14k, c.1930’s (right)
Enrico Serafini, Pair of “Water Sprites”, 18K Yellow and White gold set with 22 round diamonds, approx.2 ½ carats TW, Signed: E. Serafini, 750 (both signed), c. 1950’s
Hayno Focken / Modernist round covered copper box c. 1935
HAYNO FOCKEN (1905-1968) Germany
Round covered box c. 1935
Hand-wrought and hand-hammered copper with brass details
Marks under the foot: HF (conjoined monogram)
For other works by Hayno Focken see: Metallkunst: Vom Jugendstil zur Moderne (1889-1939), ed. Karl H. Bröhan (Berlin: Bröhan Museum, 1990), illus. 177, p. 183; Avantgarde Design 1880=1930,Torsten Bröhan & Thomas Berg (Köln, Benedict Taschen, 1994) p. 116; , (Berlin 1937) S. 43f, Abb. 37, Abb. S 128, S 146, Sl 243; Die Schaulade 15 Ausg. A (1939) Abb. S. 197, S. 204, S. 213; Die Schaulade 16 Ausg. A (1940) Abb. S. 44, S. 51., S. 54, S. 71, S. 83. S. 89; Die Kunst 84 (1941) S. 136, S. 139-39; Die Schaulade 17 (1941) Abb. S. 13, S. 41, S. 82, S. 229;
H: 4 ¼” x Dia: 4 7/8”
Hayno Focken (1905-1968) was an eminent German metal artist. He completed his training under Professor Karl Müller (1888-1972) at the design and arts school on Giebichenstein Castle in Halle (Saale), which was strongly tied to the ideals of the Deutsche Werkbund and the Bauhaus. In 1932 he established his own workshop in Lahr/Schwarzwald and continued his work until shortly before his death. His artistic work always stood out with a strong preference for large, organic forms, a similar manner of surface design and the same adherence to the principle of handicraft. Even his artist signet was modelled on the simple, square castle mark. In the 1950s he became one of those significant artists who had a major impact on contemporary metal design. The foundation of his creative work was a masterful understanding of proportions.
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