French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
Suzanne Belperron / Groene et Darde Paris, Pair of multi stone rings, five oval cut citrines and five oval cut amethysts all set in 18K gold further set with platinum mounted diamonds, signed, c. 1940’s / early 1950’s
Belle Epoque large cabochon Amethyst pendant brooch (approx. 100+ carats TW) set with old mine cut diamonds and 2 fine old round cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) all in a silver top gold mounting, c. 1895
French Art Deco / Boivin (attr.) / Strekers, 11 rue de Pyramides 75001 Paris (maker’s mark) “Fan Shape” clip / brooch, 18K gold with fancy hard and baguette cut citrines and a large cabochon ruby (6.50 carats), marks c. 1938
Cartier clip / brooch, 6 large oval orange citrines with buff cut citrines encircling the oval cluster, buff cut baguette citrines and diamonds set in platinum, signed Cartier, 0510, c. 1930
Cartier, Paris “Elephant” Maillon Panthere bracelet in 18k gold and set with 200 round cut diamonds (approx. 10 carats TW) and three round cut emeralds for the eyes, signed: Cartier (script signature), no. 641403, 750, French Eagle’s head assay mark for 18k gold (3x), maker’s mark in a diamond cartouche, c.1980’s
Shreve & Co., San Francisco Art Deco ring set with a trio of round cut diamonds (approx. 2 1/4 carats TW) set in platinum with caliber cut onyx surrounding the three diamonds and further set with four round cut diamonds flanking either side of the ring shank, signed: Shreve & Co., 950, Platinum, c.1930
American Art Deco ring set with a large gem quality emerald step-cut aquamarine (approx. 15 carats by calculation with the dimensions of 17mm x 13mm x 10mm depth) and 10 round cut diamonds (approx. half of a carat TW) all set in a platinum “Bow tie” design mount, signed: FFF framed with a triangle facing in on either side (maker’s mark), Plat (platinum mark), c.1935
Art Deco ruby and diamond ring set in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, four round diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) set with 20 square and caliber cut natural rubies (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with 34 round diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) c.1920
Marsh & Co. San Francisco, “Paisley” brooch with a blackened steel dramatic outline on an elaborate 18k gold frame and back in the shape of a paisley pave set with full cut round diamonds of (approx. 3.5-4 carats TW), c. 1950’s
G.T. Marsh was established in 1876 in San Francisco, CA as one of the first purveyors of Japanese art and antiques. In the early 30’s Marsh, with the help of his Italian bench jeweler settled on a unique style that will always be indicative of the firm. Instead of using gold or platinum, the jeweler, who was interested in gun-smithing, created a line of jewels using sandblasted steel finished with gun bluing. This resulted in a rich dark mat black finish. Chased or milegrained white gold or platinum offset pearls, jade or diamonds set against the black ground of the steel. Movement also played a part in the design. Hinged pearls or gemstones added yet another distinct element to the work or exceptionally strong contrasting graphics. The use of diamonds on a grander scale with the dramatic outline of a classic paisley form, places this brooch mid-century and at a time when Marsh’s Jewelry boutique was particularly flourishing in the Bay area.
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
Gaucherand, Paris “Fringe Turban” shaped brooch set with a large emerald cut Siberian amethyst (approx. 70 carats), 6 round cut diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW) and 19 cabochon turquoise all set in 18k gold, signed, c.1950
French Art Deco “Heptagon” clip / brooch set with a large fancy cut madeira citrine and 8 baguette madeira citrines all set in 18K gold, signed, c. 1935
French Art Deco “Heptagon” clip / brooch set with a large fancy cut madeira citrine and 8 baguette madeira citrines all set in 18K gold, signed GA in a diamond French touch mark, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1935
Udall & Ballou “Scottie” dog brooch set with 62 round cut diamonds (approx. 5 carats TW), two triangle shaped diamonds, one diamond shaped diamond, black enamel and onyx all set in platinum, c.1930
French 19th Century “Gothic Revival” ring set with a very fine square step cut emerald (approx. 2 carats TW) and two European rose cut diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) all in an openwork 18K yellow gold mount further set with 12 old mine cut diamonds, signed, c.1885
Imperial topaz (26 carats) solitaire ring set in platinum with two elongated baguette diamonds, signed: L and M French maker’s mark in a diamond poincon, French Dog’s head assay mark for platinum, c.1950
American Art Deco ring (likely by Louis C. Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.) set with a large blue zircon (approx. 64 carats by calculation, 20mm x 20mm x 19mm) set in a fancy platinum mount further set with 14 round cut diamonds, four bullet shaped gold/orange citrines and two kite shaped gold/orange citrines, marked: very deeply stamped letters as a maker’s mark on the inside of the shank, c. 1930
***Top quality gem blue zircons over 10 carats trade at a minimum price of $200 per carat and go up from there depending on the size of the stone and the quality of the color. Blue zircon, the most popular color, is produced by heat treatment of brown zircon. But not all brown zircon will turn blue when heated; only some zircon has the right physical structure for this to occur. This is why most blue zircon comes from certain sources in Cambodia or Burma. Blue zircon is a reasonably hard gem with a Mohs hardness of about 7 to 7.5. Blue zircon has some unique properties that make it very popular with gemstone aficionados. Not only does zircon have outstanding brilliance, but it also has very strong dispersion or fire, the tendency to split white light into the spectral colors. Zircon also has very pronounced birefringence or double refraction, with a wide variance between the two refractive indices. This can be often be observed with the naked eye when you look down through the table of a cut zircon; you will observe facet doubling that makes the facet edges appear blurred.
Art Deco Emerald step cut diamond solitaire ring, center cut emerald diamond (3 carats 10.30 x 7.20 x 4.3mm, Clarity VS-1, Color I/J, UGL certificate), with surrounding round brilliant cut diamonds, French cut natural sapphires (approx. 0.60 carats), all set in platinum mounting, c. 1930’s
Andrew Grima “Comet” ring, Asymmetric cut citrine mounted in 18K textured yellow gold, five diamonds, signed: GRIMA, 0.750 (in a rectangle cartouche, AG Limited (in a rectangular cartouche), Crown, 18, Lion’s Head (for London), q (date mark for 1971), 1971
Stylized “Grape Cluster” brooch with platinum grapes set with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3.50 carats TW) and highly textured and detailed 18k gold leaves and vines, c.1980’s
Neil Lane “Egyptian Motif” ring, step-cut emerald shaped Peridot (approx. 18+ carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 18.55 x 14.85 x7.90mm) 18K gold with pave set diamonds, signed, c. 2008
Neil Lane Couture, large rectangular step-cut natural gem Peridot (18.12 carats, dimensions 18.55mm x 14.85mm x 7.90mm, GIA certificate) in an elaborate 18k gold “Egyptian” motif mounting set with 158 full, round-cut small diamonds (approx. 1.58 carats TW) and signed by Neil Lane, c. 2008
French Art Deco Diamond and sapphire ring, Round rose cut diamond (approx. 3 carats) set with sapphires (approx. 1.5 carats TW) in a platinum mount, signed, c. 1930
Champagne “Mughal” Diamond ring, Round rose cut fancy light to fancy brownish yellow natural color center diamond (G.I.A. certificate, 5.50 carats) encircled with 12 old mine cut brilliant diamonds (G.I.A. certificate, near colorless approx. 8 carats TW) and 12 small round old mine cut diamonds all set in white and yellow gold, mid 19th Century
French Art Deco ring set with a fine jadeite oval cabochon, faceted and caliber cut onyx, and further set with 18 round diamonds and six square French-cut diamonds all set in a millegrain platinum mount, c. 1920’s
American Art Nouveau “Green Heart” ring set with a heart shaped peridot (approx.15 carats) surrounded with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3 ½ carats TW) all set in an 18K gold mounting, c.1900
Margaret De Patta (1903-1964) Modernist asymmetric sterling ring set with twenty square cut sapphires (approx. 9 carats TW ), signed: DePatta, Chevron mark of MDP, Sterling, c.1947
American “Retro Ruby” ring set with three square cut natural pink toned rubies (approx. 2 carats TW) in a 14K mounting, marked: RKV maker’s mark, 14K, inscribed with the initials H.R.P.to S.M.P., c.1940
Russian “Crest” ring, double headed eagle on a blue enamel background set with 17 round cut diamonds and multiple single cut diamonds all in a 14K gold mount (56 zolotniks), signed, c. 1905
Gustav Manz (designer) for Thomas Kirkpatrick & Co., Fifth Avenue, NYC Art Deco Butterfly brooch, 12 baguette diamonds and 83 round diamonds (approx. 11 carats TW), 22 contoured and buff cut sapphires and 10 contoured and buff cut peridot, black enamel details all set in platinum, signed, c. 1920’s
Munnu Kasliwal for Gem Palace “Flower Blossoms” earrings with 34 rose cut round fire opals (approx. 24 carats TW, center fire opals are 2.30 carats each) set in 22K gold, c. 2000
Seaman Schepps, New York “Maltese Cross” brooch, one large round cut central citrine (approx. 45 carats) set with 4 large square step-cut citrines (approx. 108 carats TW) and further set with four extra long baguette citrines (approx. 13 carats TW) in a radiating pattern set in 14k yellow gold (total citrine carat weight of 166 carats), signed: Seaman Schepps, 14k, c. 1940’s
An immigrant’s son, who grew up in the tenements of New York’s Lower East Side, Seaman Schepps rose to prominence in the 1930s with jewelry designs that challenged the status quo and defined a new style for the American woman. With his chunky brooches, “barbaric” bracelets and “bubble” earrings, Schepps pioneered a unique style of jewelry whose sense of splendor offered a new perspective to the world of fine jewelry.
Witty, over-the-top and flattering, Schepps’ jewelry embodied style and originality and was featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Look and other magazines. It appealed to a myriad of clients from Katherine Hepburn to Andy Warhol to the Duchess of Windsor and greatly influenced his contemporaries. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewelers.
Through the 1930s, and into the 40s and 50s, new clients flocked to him at his store on Madison Avenue. Often clients wanted a one-of-a-kind bauble and commissioned Schepps to incorporate their old jewelry into a fresh new design. Frequently this led to landmark decisions that helped distinguish Schepps as an extraordinary talent. His client list included Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor, and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. By serving these most powerful and influential individuals, Schepps became known as “America’s Court Jeweler”.
Mahrokh Beck, Munich, Stylized flower brooch with a large square cut citrine, a smaller square cut citrine, yellow and orange oval citrines, sapphires and cognac diamonds all set in 18K yellow gold, c. 2005
MAHROKH BECK Munich, Germany
Stylized flower brooch c. 2005
Set in 18 K yellow gold with a large square cut citrine (approx. 40 carats TW) and a smaller square cut citrine (approx. 4 carats TW), 2 oval orange citrines, 2 oval yellow citrines, 2 oval sapphires and cognac diamonds
Charlton & Co. (attr.) American Art Deco “Dendrite Agate” jewel cufflinks in an overall hexagonal form further set with caliber cut onyx in platinum topped 18k yellow gold, c. 1920’s
Van Cleef & Arpels, New York gem set floral perfume bottle in 14k rose gold set with 5 round cut natural rubies (approx. 1 carat TW) and one round cut diamond, signed: Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, 2669, 14k, c.1938 (left) &Cartier Art Deco “Candle or Flame” portable perfume bottle in 14k gold, signed: Cartier (script signature), 14k, c.1930’s (right)
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