Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) “Camellia” brooch, black and coral enameled 18k gold further set with diamond pave furled leaf edges set in platinum with a large red coral central cabochon, signed, c.1920’s
French Art Deco/Modernist diamond ring set with 26 round cut diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) mounted in platinum and further set in an 18k gold four-tier contoured ring mounting, marked, c.1930’s
American Art Deco rectangular onyx ring with a diamond center stone (approx. 1.5 carat TW) and further set with 12 round diamonds on the side shanks, platinum mount, c. 1930
Suzanne Belperron / Groene et Darde Paris, Pair of multi stone rings, five oval cut citrines and five oval cut amethysts all set in 18K gold further set with platinum mounted diamonds, signed, c. 1940’s / early 1950’s
Madame Berlioz and Monsieur Leroy, Paris (Place Vendome, 19 Rue de la Paix active 1920’s through the 1940’s) Art Deco “Pennanular” brooch, onyx and black and enameled 18k gold further set with 53 diamonds in arcing details set in platinum with three ovoid Persian turquoise cabochons, signed, c.1920’s
Rene Boivin (attr.) French Art Deco brooch set with a large rectangular aquamarine and diamonds set in a geometric platinum and matte finish 18K yellow gold, signed c. 1930’s
Rene Boivin, Paris, “Art Moderne” ring set with an oval sapphire (approx. 2+ carats TW) and further set with 22 tapered and full sapphire baguettes (approx. 3 carats TW) and 18 round cut diamonds (approx. 2+ carats TW) all set in a streamlined and contoured platinum mount, signed, certificate, c.1930’s
Cartier clip / brooch, 6 large oval orange citrines with buff cut citrines encircling the oval cluster, buff cut baguette citrines and diamonds set in platinum, signed Cartier, 0510, c. 1930
Joseph Kutchinsky, London (1914-2000) “Wrapped Cloth” ring in 18K yellow gold with a platinum tapered rectangular form pave set with 37 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) , signed, 1973 (London gold mark small “s” for 1973) (illustrated: Christie’s Twentieth-Century Jewelry, Sally Everitt and David Lancaster (New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 2002) p.113.
Pierre Sterlé Paris, “Hummingbird” brooch, carved natural ruby in zoisite mounted in 18K gold set with diamonds set in platinum, original suede box, signed, c. 1950’s
Paul Flato (attr.) “Dolores del Rio” cuff bracelet, 3 large rectangular citrines (approx. 200+ carats) and pave diamonds (approx. 9 carats TW) set in 18K yellow gold and platinum,(G.I.A. certificate) c. 1940
Provenance: Dolores del Rio
Illustrated: “The Impossible Collection of Jewelry” by Vivienne Becker(Assouline, 2015)
Shreve & Co., San Francisco Art Deco ring set with a trio of round cut diamonds (approx. 2 1/4 carats TW) set in platinum with caliber cut onyx surrounding the three diamonds and further set with four round cut diamonds flanking either side of the ring shank, signed: Shreve & Co., 950, Platinum, c.1930
American Art Deco ring set with a large gem quality emerald step-cut aquamarine (approx. 15 carats by calculation with the dimensions of 17mm x 13mm x 10mm depth) and 10 round cut diamonds (approx. half of a carat TW) all set in a platinum “Bow tie” design mount, signed: FFF framed with a triangle facing in on either side (maker’s mark), Plat (platinum mark), c.1935
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Art Deco cushion shape natural Burmese sapphire ring (approx. 7 carats TW, G.I.A. certificate, 10.00 x 9.70 x 8.00mm, no heat) set in an intricate platinum mount with 4 baguette diamonds and 16 round diamonds (approx. 4 carats), c. 1930
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with diamonds, original leather box, signed c. 1925
Cartier Art Deco brooch, carved rock crystal with a fancy platinum mount set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW) further set with two European and cushion cut diamonds (approx. 1 carat TW) with diamond pave work filling out the surrounding floral motif, original leather box, signed and numbered, c. 1925
American Retro “Leaf” brooches, Burma sapphires (approx. 12+ carats), cabochon rubies (approx. 12+ carats) and baguette and round diamonds all set in 18K gold and platinum, marked, c. 1950
Walter P. McTeigue Penguin brooch, platinum set with pave diamonds (approx. 3 carats TW), 18k gold body further set with two cabochon emerald eyes, signed, c.1940’s
European Modernist ring set with three round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and further set with 34 diamonds (approx. 4 carats TW) in three platinum sections on a 14K gold ring, signed, c.1930
American Pendant “Knot” earrings set with two natural cabochon sapphires (GIA certificate, approximately 6 carats TW) and further set with 50 round diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) and 48 baguette, square and tapered diamonds (approx. 7 carats TW) all set in platinum mounts, marked, c.1950
Mappin & Webb Art Deco / Modernist diamond brooch (84 count approximately 14 carats TW), further set with fully faceted onyx and emeralds with a central square synthetic emerald all set in an elaborate platinum mount, c.1930
Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau brooch, “Tibula” shaped 18k yellow gold brooch set with three natural pearls, the natural center button pearl approx. 10 mm in diameter (G.I.A. certificate, 3 natural freshwater pearls, weight 24.90 grams, measurement range from 5.46 to 12.26mm), 16 sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the two large and high dome middle sapphires with a purple hue, 20 pave set round diamonds all surrounded with clear plique-a-jour further trapped with platinum flakes, signed c. 1897
Udall & Ballou “Scottie” dog brooch set with 62 round cut diamonds (approx. 5 carats TW), two triangle shaped diamonds, one diamond shaped diamond, black enamel and onyx all set in platinum, c.1930
Lacloche Freres, Paris (attr.) Tutti Frutti “Bouquet of Flowers” ring set with two Mughal carved sapphire flower/leaf shaped jewels and further set with a matching cabochon sapphire, 11 baguette diamonds, 22 round cut diamonds and two golden hued pearls all in a very intricately detailed platinum mount, c.1920’s
Imperial topaz (26 carats) solitaire ring set in platinum with two elongated baguette diamonds, signed: L and M French maker’s mark in a diamond poincon, French Dog’s head assay mark for platinum, c.1950
French Art Deco Interlocking ring, Invisibly set rectangular sapphires (10 count, approx. 2.50 carats TW), pave diamonds (approx. 2.50 carats TW) all set in a platinum mount, c. 1935
American Art Deco ring (likely by Louis C. Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.) set with a large blue zircon (approx. 64 carats by calculation, 20mm x 20mm x 19mm) set in a fancy platinum mount further set with 14 round cut diamonds, four bullet shaped gold/orange citrines and two kite shaped gold/orange citrines, marked: very deeply stamped letters as a maker’s mark on the inside of the shank, c. 1930
***Top quality gem blue zircons over 10 carats trade at a minimum price of $200 per carat and go up from there depending on the size of the stone and the quality of the color. Blue zircon, the most popular color, is produced by heat treatment of brown zircon. But not all brown zircon will turn blue when heated; only some zircon has the right physical structure for this to occur. This is why most blue zircon comes from certain sources in Cambodia or Burma. Blue zircon is a reasonably hard gem with a Mohs hardness of about 7 to 7.5. Blue zircon has some unique properties that make it very popular with gemstone aficionados. Not only does zircon have outstanding brilliance, but it also has very strong dispersion or fire, the tendency to split white light into the spectral colors. Zircon also has very pronounced birefringence or double refraction, with a wide variance between the two refractive indices. This can be often be observed with the naked eye when you look down through the table of a cut zircon; you will observe facet doubling that makes the facet edges appear blurred.
Art Deco Emerald step cut diamond solitaire ring, center cut emerald diamond (3 carats 10.30 x 7.20 x 4.3mm, Clarity VS-1, Color I/J, UGL certificate), with surrounding round brilliant cut diamonds, French cut natural sapphires (approx. 0.60 carats), all set in platinum mounting, c. 1930’s
Edwardian Sugarloaf Fire Opal (approx. 4 carats TW) ring with 32 diamonds set in a milligrain platinum topped 18K yellow gold mounting, marked, c. 1910
Andrew Grima “Comet” ring, Asymmetric cut citrine mounted in 18K textured yellow gold, five diamonds, signed: GRIMA, 0.750 (in a rectangle cartouche, AG Limited (in a rectangular cartouche), Crown, 18, Lion’s Head (for London), q (date mark for 1971), 1971
French 1950’s “Turban Style” ring, large pearl (G.I.A. certificate, Weight of the pearl: 16 grams, bead cultured pearl, saltwater, drop shape, white color, “Orient” overtone) and fancy diamond ring set with two triangle diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and 48 round diamonds (approx. 8 carats TW) all set in platinum, signed
Stylized “Grape Cluster” brooch with platinum grapes set with 20 round cut diamonds (approx. 3.50 carats TW) and highly textured and detailed 18k gold leaves and vines, c.1980’s
French Art Deco Diamond and sapphire ring, Round rose cut diamond (approx. 3 carats) set with sapphires (approx. 1.5 carats TW) in a platinum mount, signed, c. 1930
French Art Deco ring set with a fine jadeite oval cabochon, faceted and caliber cut onyx, and further set with 18 round diamonds and six square French-cut diamonds all set in a millegrain platinum mount, c. 1920’s
Neil Lane heart shaped natural sapphire solitaire ring, 3.12 carats (GIA certificate, 8.56 x 9.62 x 5.13mm, no heat) with a diamond pave set platinum mounting, signed, c. 2005
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