European Modernist ring set with three round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) and further set with 34 diamonds (approx. 4 carats TW) in three platinum sections on a 14K gold ring, signed, c.1930
French Art Deco Emerald ring set with a very fine cabochon emerald (approx. 3 carats TW) and two old European cushion cut diamonds (3 carats TW) and further set with 12 round cut diamonds all set in 18K gold, signed, c.1920’s
Cartier (attr.) “Bombe” cocktail ring set with a emerald-cut aquamarine (approx. 6 carats TW) 26 round-cut diamonds, 18 baguette diamonds and two triangle-cut diamonds (approx. 6.5 carats TW) all in an elaborate platinum mounting with open platinum wire details, Marked: French “Mask” platinum guarantee mark for remarking old production pieces, c.1950
American Pendant “Knot” earrings set with two natural cabochon sapphires (GIA certificate, approximately 6 carats TW) and further set with 50 round diamonds (approx. 6 carats TW) and 48 baguette, square and tapered diamonds (approx. 7 carats TW) all set in platinum mounts, marked, c.1950
Giacinto Melillo (1846-1915) Naples “Etruscan / Archaeological Revival” Campana bracelet in 18k gold with extremely delicate and elaborate granulation gold work, delicate applied gold wire-work and gold beading further accented with polychrome enamel details, two cabochon bead emeralds and a pearl on 7 hinged square panels and two semi-circular panels, signed: G. Melillo touch mark on top of the end screw clasp and Triunfo (triumph) in a cartouche on the back of one of the arcing panels, c.1870
Dimensions: Length: 7 and 5/8 inches x Width: 1 inch
Barrey, Paris, Art Deco “Wheat” clip brooch in 18k gold with fine details of a sheath of wheat, marked: JJB in a diamond poincon (maker’s mark of barrey, 18 rue du mail 75002, Paris), French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold (2x), c. 1938
Seaman Schepps “Grape” cluster clip/brooch set with 9 large cabochon sapphires (approx. 85+ carats TW), 5 large cabochon emeralds (approx. 35+ carats TW) and 13 round diamonds (approx. 2 carats TW) set in a 14K yellow mounting with leaves and vines, signed Seaman Schepps and 14k, Dimensions: 2 3/4 inches long x 2 1/4 inches wide, c. 1940
***This is a closely related “Grape” cluster clip/brooch model that Seaman Schepps made on commission for the eminent socialite Doris Duke (Collection Seaman Schepps, but there is a predominance of dark blue and purple cabochon sapphires in the DD brooch as opposed to the predominance of larger and more translucent cabochon sapphires as well as cabochon emeralds in this example
Marchak Paris, “Gold Ball” earrings, 9 fluted gold balls with woven rope designed chains in 18K gold, Signed and marked: Marchak, Made in Paris, no. 230494, c. 1935
Hermes / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link necklace/ bracelet, 18K gold, signed, c. 1970’s
Hermes, Paris / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link bracelet, 18K gold, signed: Hermes (block engraved signature), no. 66897, GL in a diamond mark for Georges Lenfant, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1950’s
Weight of one bracelet: 2.97 Troy ounces / 92.5 grams / 59.4 pennyweights
Hermes, Paris / Georges L’Enfant textured loop link bracelet, 18K gold, signed: Hermes (block engraved signature), no. 68083, GL in a diamond mark for Georges Lenfant, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1950’s
Weight of the second bracelet: 2.90 Troy ounces / 90.1 grams / 58 pennyweights
Mappin & Webb Art Deco / Modernist diamond brooch (84 count approximately 14 carats TW), further set with fully faceted onyx and emeralds with a central square synthetic emerald all set in an elaborate platinum mount, c.1930
Gaucherand, Paris “Fringe Turban” shaped brooch set with a large emerald cut Siberian amethyst (approx. 70 carats), 6 round cut diamonds (approx. 1.50 carats TW) and 19 cabochon turquoise all set in 18k gold, signed, c.1950
Trabert & Hoeffer, Mauboussin Art Deco “Parrot” brooch, 18k white and yellow gold set with 11 oval citrines (approximately 5 carats tw), three peridot baguettes and a cabochon ruby eye all further set against a pave diamond body (approximately 7 carats TW, 120+ count), signed, c.1935
Jules Wiese (1818-1895) / Louis Wiese (son of Jules, 1852-1923) Renaissance Revival jeweled and enameled 18k gold pendant necklace set with an ancient carved carnelian cameo, table cut diamonds, rubies and an emerald, two natural pearl drops and a cabochon emerald drop with the original chain, signed, original leather box with and silk velvet and satin interior, c.1875
A goldsmith and jeweler, Louis Wiese (Berlin 1818 – Paris 1890) began his career in Berlin where he served his apprenticeship before moving to Paris to work for J.V. Morel and then more significantly with F.D. Froment-Meurice, with whom he established a close bond. Weise opened his first atelier rue Jean-Pain-Molet in 1844 and worked exclusively for Froment-Meurice, as ever a supporter of Wiese’s work, he pushed for Wiese to receive the collaborator’s medal at the Exposition of 1849. Jules Wiese eventually worked for many of the top manufacturing jewelers and went on to win a first-class medal at the 1855 Exposition and a medal of honor at the 1862 Exhibition in London. M. Magne was quoted as follows when discussing Jules Wiese in light of the 1855 Exposition, “fine goldsmith and jeweler with an already distinguished reputation which can only be enhanced by his display. The importance of his pieces and his brave experiments reveal, even in the most modest work, an awareness of art and beauty which deserves to be encouraged by the jury.” Louis, Jules’ son, took over the company in 1880, continuing the reputation for fine craftsmanship and artistry that his father had established.
Hunt and Roskell in alliance with J. W. Benson 18k gold pomander / vinaigrette in the form of an apple, marked, original red leather box, c. 1897
Hunt and Roskell in alliance with J. W. Benson 18k gold pomander / vinaigrette in the form of an apple, Marked: 307049 (British Registration mark), J.W.B. makers mark and British gold hallmarks original red leather box, c. 1897
The Tale of the Golden Apple
It was the wedding of Peleus and Thetis (the parents of Achilles) that the Goddess Elis threw a golden apple into the assembled crowd. Upon the surface of the fruit was etched “To The Faires”. Three goddesses laid claim upon the apple; Aphrodite, Hera and Athena. It was decided by Zeus, king of the Gods, that Paris of Troy should mediate the dispute. After bathing in the spring of Mount Ida, the three presented themselves to Paris. It was decided that Aphrodite, the Goddess of love and beauty, had the superior claim and that the golden apple belonged to her.
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. “Berry brooch” 18K yellow gold, demantoids and cabochon turquoise, signed, c. 1968
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. “Berry brooch” 18K yellow gold set with 40 oval cut demantoid garnets (approx. 9 carats TW /G.I.A. certificate) and 7 small oval cabochon Persian turquoise stones, Signed: Tiffany, Schlumberger, 18K, c. 1968
Illustrated: (“Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837-1987”, Clare Phillips, page 279 (Vintage Tiffany Blue Book 1968-1969, ruby version of this brooch priced at $1,475)
Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau brooch, “Tibula” shaped 18k yellow gold brooch set with three natural pearls, the natural center button pearl approx. 10 mm in diameter (G.I.A. certificate, 3 natural freshwater pearls, weight 24.90 grams, measurement range from 5.46 to 12.26mm), 16 sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the two large and high dome middle sapphires with a purple hue, 20 pave set round diamonds all surrounded with clear plique-a-jour further trapped with platinum flakes, signed c. 1897
French Art Deco “Heptagon” clip / brooch set with a large fancy cut madeira citrine and 8 baguette madeira citrines all set in 18K gold, signed, c. 1935
French Art Deco “Heptagon” clip / brooch set with a large fancy cut madeira citrine and 8 baguette madeira citrines all set in 18K gold, signed GA in a diamond French touch mark, French Eagle’s head mark for 18k gold, c. 1935
Maison Ostertag Important French Art Deco Jewel Mounted Covered Box c.1925
MAISON OSTERTAG (Place Vendome, Paris) 1920’s and 30’s
ARNOLD OSTERTAG (Jeweler / Designer)
VERGER FRERES (maker)
Art Deco jewel mounted mechanical covered box c. 1925
Of rectangular stepped form, the black enamel box hinged and accented at the top with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral; spring loaded to pull down and reveal a cinnabar red enamel interior, the exterior with gold champlevé set highly stylized geometric initials and further ornamented with geometric square cut out gold applied handles embellished with salmon coral beads and red enamel bands, all resting on a recessed agate base and conforming black onyx base punctuated with a gold bezel mounted sugar loaf shaped coral on each corner.
Marks: Ostertag (on a gold plaque inset into the underside of the onyx base)
H: 4″ x W: 3 1/2″ x D: 3 1/2″
Arnold Ostertag was a Swiss-born jeweler who became a dominant force in the creation of fine jewels and objects in Paris during the 1920s and 30s. After studying dentistry in Chicago, Ostertag embarked on a world tour and, while traveling through India, became fascinated by jewels. He later settled in Paris and opened a very successful salon on the Place Vendome. In design and quality, Ostertag’s jewels, which frequently featured Indian themes, rivaled the production of many of the most famous Parisian jewelry houses. In fact, the renowned clockmaker George Verger/Verger Freres, produced wonderful clocks and mechanical objects for Ostertag, as well as for many other world renowned jewelers and likely masterminded the mechanism of the Art Deco box above. In addition to making pieces for Ostertag, Maison Verger made pieces for Cartier, LaCloche, Marzo, Boucheron, Hermes, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, Mauboussin, etc. Arnold Ostertag was popular on the international front and made many trips to America spending time in both New York, as well as Los Angeles where he befriended many Hollywood stars. He also received commissions during his trips to make exquisite custom jewelry and precious jeweled objects such as this fine Art Deco box.
Egyptian Revival “Double Ibis” highly detailed 18k gold brooch in the form of two Ibis with hanging fringe feathers set with a round cabochon emerald (approx. 5 carats) and a round cabochon ruby (approx. 6 carats), c. 1920
H. Stern, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil highly textured and sculptural tapered bracelet in 18K gold set with 7 oval gem quality amethysts (approx. 14 carats TW) Marked: 750 mark, S (H. Stern mark) in a diamond, c. 1960’s
Jean Schlumberger, Paris, famous articulated “fish” lighter, 18K gold body and tail composed of striated and scallop edged scales, set with two cabochon sapphires for eyes, one pink and one blue, signed: Schlumberger, Modele Depose, French Eagle’s head touch mark for 18k gold (3x), Crab mark for silver made in the French provinces, (lighter insert only) c. 1939-42 Model illustrated: The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, catalogue no. 50
Cartier, Paris “Snake” necklace in finely detailed 18k gold and with a slightly expandable link feature, signed: Cartier Paris (script signature), no. 02694, French Eagle’s head touchmark for 18K gold (2x), Cartier touchmark in a diamond, original Cartier red leather, velvet and silk presentation box, c.1940
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